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reynald
15-12-2014, 06:45 AM
I have leak on the Ammonia pipe connected on the Surge Drum (return of sight Glass) theres no stop valve, pressure 2 bar at -10 Degree Cent. cannot shut down the plant, i search in the internet i found Wrap Seal Ultra to arrest the leak but this not available wait for 10 days is any product that i can apply to arrest the leak?


Thanks,

Reynald

Grizzly
15-12-2014, 07:19 AM
Reynald.
An old trick I have used in the past to temporarily stop a leaking valve stem.
Is to slowly drip water over the leak.
If you are slow enough and careful, Ice can form at the source of the leak and build up around it.
Giving a temporary leak proof seal.

Another option is to soak a cloth / cloths in water and drape it / them across the leak.
No guarantees but these tricks may help buy some time.
Good Luck Grizzly

RANGER1
15-12-2014, 09:46 AM
Raynald,
Can you advise why pipe is leaking, is it corrosion or threaded fitting?

reynald
15-12-2014, 12:45 PM
pipe due to corrosion

Grizzly
15-12-2014, 02:14 PM
Ok reynald.
Back in the dark days before regulation.
I have seen corroded pipes sealed with a pipe length of a suitable slightly larger I.D. than the O.D. of the rusted pipe.
Having first split that pipe down its length. Using some Magic Putty (Resin based two part epoxy putty) which was stuffed around the inner bore of the outer pipe.
The 2 pipe halves where then clamped around the leaking pipe using Jubilee Clips. Over short space of time the putty hardens creating a impressive seal.
Navy lads have some special resin coating that once applied you have to chisel the stuff off.
Grizzly

reynald
16-12-2014, 02:56 AM
Good Morning,

Thanks Grizzly

Tycho
16-12-2014, 11:13 PM
11881
Couple of these and some heavy duty rubber gasket between them and the pipe should keep it sealed until you can shut the system down.
In Norway we call it a "feroe weld" :) (ships with machinists from the faroe islands would always have 4-7 of these repairs when coming in for service :))

place two layers of 3-5mm rubber gasket over the leak, and use the pipe clamp or whatever it's called to tighten it over the leak

mbc
17-12-2014, 04:22 AM
we have P E ( Polly Ethylene) -- T connection for metal water pipe .

buy 2 of them for your pipe size .

they have two part up side and down side with nuts

use two down sides

first put rubber around pipe then with that pecs fix your leaks

I did it is very useful .

Grizzly
17-12-2014, 09:15 AM
11881
Couple of these and some heavy duty rubber gasket between them and the pipe should keep it sealed until you can shut the system down.
In Norway we call it a "feroe weld" :) (ships with machinists from the faroe islands would always have 4-7 of these repairs when coming in for service :))

place two layers of 3-5mm rubber gasket over the leak, and use the pipe clamp or whatever it's called to tighten it over the leak

Hi Tyco.
We call them Jubilee clips as per my reference to them earlier.
This is a trade name but the original, much like Hoover or Mole grips!
It's all in the translation, similar to your "feroe!"

Grizzly

PaulZ
17-12-2014, 09:08 PM
Hi Grizzly / Tycho
I have always known them as Hose Clips or Clamps, I have also heard them called Jubilee clamps as well.
As Grizzly said they often get called by their trade names.
I have used these with rubber insertion to stop water leaks but never for ammonia, but if done correctly I can't see why it wouldn't work as a temporary fix.
Regards
Paul

Tycho
16-02-2015, 08:44 PM
a direct translation from Norwegian to english would be a "hose clip" but upon reading it, jubilee clamp/clip sounds familiar :)

the most inovative/functioning way I have come across for a leak fix on a system was on a bait freezing system on a longliner... there was a leak on the discharge pipe between the compressor and oil separator (copper pipe), in the middle of the elbow going down to the oil separator, probably a stress fracture because of vibrations.

the machinist had noticed the leak because of "gray smoke coming out of the pipe" he shut the compressor down, closed off the correct valves, then used an 8mm drill to make a notch in the pipe across where the leak was, then he applied a large amount of electrical tape to the pipe, before he placed the plain part of the drillbit in the notch and tied it off with string...

When I say tied it of with string, that is what he said, but when I saw it, it was so perfectly braided, the compressor was running with 10 bar discharge, and there wasnt even a hint of a leak around his repair...

I almost shed a tear when I cut through his braiding

weagle
22-02-2015, 10:42 PM
Check out a site calledhttp://www.jcmindustries.com/ we had a decent leak on a high stage discharge line and used one of these clamps to repair it until we had time to cut and replace the failed line.
Best of luck!