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MorseCoad
03-03-2014, 05:33 AM
I have something a little different - I have been asked to take a xarios 600 unit off of a transport truck and reinstall it into a permanent cool room on 240v power. The unit runs perfectly on the truck both with the engine and plugged in to 240V. Can this be done easily to set it as a standard cool room? I have limited experience on transport refrigeration and having looked over the units can see refrigeration pipe work coming out of the evaporator and then connecting back into under the truck. I havent taken anything apart yet but can I assume this is hot gas defrost off the truck cab A/C? can I just do away with that as the room is only storing fruit which is already cold and holding it at about 6 degrees? Any help would be greatly appreciated. See,s easy enough just want to make sure Im looking at it right!

cadwaladr
03-03-2014, 06:48 PM
Done quite a few of these,reclaim the gas charge and disconnect the hoses from the road compressor keep hoses with the body along with all the wiring to it along with the in cab control loom,remove the box from the chassis etc it needs the in cab control to work,reconnect everything vac pressure test replace the filter drier and recharge it,bear in mind the condenser fan motor has carbon brushes so these need to be checked on a regular basis so you will have the road compressor reconnected ,and under the unit,has this unit been used to transport the produce it's now going to store if not then you may need to reset the evaporator fan control and defrost intervals,when you get it running monitor the oil level in standby compressor ,

clivemtk
03-03-2014, 08:03 PM
cad why not seal off roadside completely as you said couple evap up and just use standby for the rest

cadwaladr
03-03-2014, 08:14 PM
Thought the easy option was best as he may not have the fittings?

clivemtk
03-03-2014, 08:47 PM
solder up roadside fittings job done

IRMechanik
04-03-2014, 10:11 PM
I'd delete the road compressor. One less thing to leak, especially since the road compressor will never turn again. The seal will dry out and leak eventually and if you start moving and bending the lines they're going to leak.

MorseCoad
06-03-2014, 01:57 AM
Thanks guys thats what my plan is. I have got some fittings made with caps to block off the pipes and seal the unit. The unit is only storing already cold produce and holding it around 5 or 6 degrees so its not going to be working too hard. Ill let you know how it all goes. Thanks for the info.

cadwaladr
07-03-2014, 11:54 PM
You can program it to have evap fans running continuos which may help with the stuff your storing it may be programmed that way now? But it's easy to set.

MorseCoad
13-03-2014, 07:10 AM
Cadwaladr - it sounds like you have worked on a few before. I am having trouble getting it to run now on standby now. I have 24v DC power out of the transformer and running up to the master control plug, but I have no power on the digital display inside? any suggestions? I had to cut of the RJ plug to remove it from the truck but have checked that and have the right configuration on the ribbon cable. I am going to redo the plug when I head back there just to make sure but its got me stumped. I assumed with me having 24vdc onto that master plug I should have power to that controller. Does any one have access to a wiring diagram for that purple plug and the unit itself? Couldnt find one online.

Thanks guys.

IRMechanik
13-03-2014, 10:23 PM
Cadwaladr - it sounds like you have worked on a few before. I am having trouble getting it to run now on standby now. I have 24v DC power out of the transformer and running up to the master control plug, but I have no power on the digital display inside? any suggestions? I had to cut of the RJ plug to remove it from the truck but have checked that and have the right configuration on the ribbon cable. I am going to redo the plug when I head back there just to make sure but its got me stumped. I assumed with me having 24vdc onto that master plug I should have power to that controller. Does any one have access to a wiring diagram for that purple plug and the unit itself? Couldnt find one online.

Thanks guys.

I'm assuming you mean the cable to the cab command when you say RJ plug. A standard issue network cable will work to test or replacement if you don't need the 15m of the factory cable.
If you have power at the emergency switch, yes you should have power to the controller on the stby + post on the controller.
Another assumption I'm making is the the xarios 600 is the same as the NA integra 40x

cadwaladr
18-03-2014, 01:57 AM
Think the integra is the same,as said the cable can be sourced locally I would get a new one did this machine work prior to removal from the truck?,change the cable if it still does not light up you may have popped the fuse inside the micro ,the micro is located behind the cover on the right of the unit as you look at it you will have to remove the micro from the unit there is the master plug and the network cable going to it ,so detach the micro from its fixings and take the back off it inside there are two fuses which sit alongside the two large relays some have one some have fuses they pull out but are very delicate so be careful again any decent electronics shop should stock them I have blown em simply by unplugging the cab control in the past,hope you understand

cadwaladr
18-03-2014, 02:01 AM
Where are you in australia? Got a friend in Melbourne in the job if you send me your email will ask him for a favour to get you a diagram.

MorseCoad
31-03-2014, 11:51 AM
Thanks for the responses. I have got the unit running - the plug needed to be recrimped. After a fair bit of playing around I have had it running but it has tripped the circuit breaker a few timees. Early on we reclaimed some gas from it which bought the amps down. Between messing with gas levels and adjusting the TX valve it is running but is struggling to get down to temp. we basically have the TX valve opened right up and filled the gas with the amp meter on the compressor until it got up around 14 amps - FLA is 16.2A. This allows the unit to run, and brings the temp down but takes a long time and after it has been running for a few hours the amps rise and trip again. One of the road side pipes that we blocked off I believe went to a storage tank for the gas - does this still need to be connected even though the road side compressor has been disconnected? We just dont seem to be getting enough liquid into the evaporator but as soon as we add more gas the amps go through the roof. Scratching my head!! any help?? Thanks in advance!

cadwaladr
31-03-2014, 07:43 PM
That's the oil sep I think,granny and eggs but is the condenser clean cannot remember if you said it was single or three phase,from memory when the head pressure gets around 280 the cond fan should kick in ,one thing to check is the connections in the junction box on top of the comp,and the distance the unit is from the power supply and the gauge of the power lead.

cadwaladr
31-03-2014, 07:50 PM
Just read your initial post,it's single phase remember that is one big compressor think about 3hp if it's the same as we have here so you may not have the correct gauge of cable alas I do not know the distance but that is the usual problem with amp draw.

sonkax
01-04-2014, 04:48 AM
Check that hot gas valve is not energised or leaking in cool mode, simply feel the pipe temperature with hands after valve, also suction and discharge pressure, road compressor had an injection thermostat, see that those 2 wires are discinonected, and inside evap you have an liquid injection solenoid that can leak causin suction to freeze up and poor cooling

ozzie35
22-04-2014, 01:01 PM
Hi. Where is this unit located? What temp is works? Standby comps are usually not strong enough to pull temp down a speacially if unit works under the sun and high temp?