Mitsubishi H.I. SCM 45 ZF-S, dual, outdoor unit problem

[for]

Hello everyone.

The A/C doesn't heat. It starts ventilator and compressor. The pressure in heating is 12 bar (it doesn't move), current is 1,4 amps.
This is the current situation.

When I came and started the A/C it worked properly for about 15 min. The pressure was 30> bars, current 4-5 amps. And then presssure started to fall down.

There is no led signaling on the outdoor unit.
Signalisation on the indoor unit is:
RUN - 1 blink every 6 or 7 seconds,
TIMER - stays on

First I changed the whole PCB of outdoor unit, didn't make difference.
Then I changed EEVs, reactor, again nothing.

When I replaced the whole outdoor unit, it started working properly.

Is it compressor, and have can I check the compressor?

[frank]

When I replaced the whole outdoor unit, it started working properly.

Problem solved then?

[for]

No, I have to fix the defect one, the other outdoor unit was just for diagnosis

[install monkey]

either moisture causinga blockage or compressor - diagnosing a system when you cannot run it is a guessing game

[for]

How can i check the compressor?

[install monkey]

http://www.lumelco.es/productos/pdf/aire/Manuales_tecnicos/Modelos%20anteriores/RAC/MULTI-SPLIT_2006(06-SCM-T-052).pdf
only option is to refit faulty condenser and check for a temperature drop accross strainers and viewthe last saved data on the remote controller

[for]

When the faulty was fitted, I saw frost on the exit pipe of the compressor . It lasted for 8-10 minutes. I think that compressor wasn't hot

[install monkey]

did you get the link for the service manual- blue text on post 6

[for]

Yes I did. What part is prime for my problem?

[for]

Is compressor in this A/C DC or AC?

[install monkey]

comp ac- part of the inverter circuit is dc, page 95 onwards gives fault diagnosis via indoor display leds and ideally a hard wired controller will give you an idea of whats happening

[for]

Yes. But there's no explenation for my diagnosis: RUN BLINKS 1 TIME EVERY 7 SECONDS, TIMER STAYS ON.
Anyway, I know that the problem is in the outside unit, but not in the electronics part. I can hear comp runing.
Can it be that its runing futile?
Can it be anything else except compressor?
Can i check compresore presure?

[install monkey]

1 ON OFF E6
Indoor heat
exchanger sensor (1)
error
Broken heat exchanger sensor (1) wire, poor
connection
try shutting liq service valve to see if the comp will pump down- could be a faulty scroll comp- cant find any details to the make/type of compressor on the technical manual-
there should be a common suction service valve- check suction pressure with it running and then after the 15mins to see if it drops, discharge press as you say should be around 30 bar, if the suction pressure drops due to a restriction then the discharge pressure would drop too, check the running temp of the compressor body- if its not pumping too well then it will start to overheat
- if it drops then its a blockage if it stays the same at around 8 bar in cooling mode then its the comp not pumping

to test the strainers for blockage- theres 2 on the liq line- inside the condenser,test inlet,outlet temps- if over 2 deg then thats your problem

[for]

When the faulty was fitted, I saw frost on the exit pipe of the compressor . It lasted for 8-10 minutes. I think that compressor wasn't hot

Sorry about this I wrote wrong, it's the discharge pipe of the comp.

Thank you very much for your tips!