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bvis
29-01-2006, 07:05 AM
Newer cheap 2 door worked fine 3 yrs, now too warm;dirty condenser-blew out;sealed system, hermetic compressor, no access valves, cap tube; searched-no leaks; compressor hot, discharge line hot, evap cold but not enough; no noticeable temp change along cap tube, no icing; I suspect partly plugged cap or oil return problem (condenser below). Tomorrow I will go back with tap in valve and recover, blow out cap tube,pressure test, change dryer; recharge.
134A is a pain.

dogma
29-01-2006, 10:04 AM
did you check the thermostat? Is it positioned correcty and is it switching at the right temp?

bvis
29-01-2006, 03:18 PM
Thermostat is at cold limit, and I can hear it click..box running at 53 degrees. Stat looks ok.

jpz06
22-11-2007, 07:52 PM
Hi, This is my first post so there may already be an answer to this. I have been dealing with this problem for a while on new 134 a systems (cap. tube) the problem is with the poe oil that is in the compressors. what I do when I have a plugged cap tube (134-a) is replace cap tube , blow out lines, replace filter dryer, and very important change oil in compressor, some how the oil in the compressor breaks down when the compressor overheats (plugged condenser ) if you break open the cap tube can see like scale forming inside.

william_wye
01-03-2009, 12:28 AM
:mad:we have had similar and numerous problems with reach in coolers, where cap blocks up.....:mad:. The problem is with the POE oil.....How to prevent this from happening??? Someone said keep unit well maintained..(clean and clear condensor coils)..tried that ..to no avail.....Anyone got better solutions?:confused:

nike123
01-03-2009, 10:00 AM
:mad:we have had similar and numerous problems with reach in coolers, where cap blocks up.....:mad:. The problem is with the POE oil.....How to prevent this from happening??? Someone said keep unit well maintained..(clean and clear condensor coils)..tried that ..to no avail.....Anyone got better solutions?:confused:

Maybe to change capillary with other of bigger bore and longer.

Slatts
07-03-2009, 10:41 AM
Hi bvis, does the compressor have a run capacitor?
A crook run cap will cause your compressor to run hot and possibly cycle on its overload, causing the case to run warm.
It should be within 10% of the capacitance marked on the cap.
If you do have to replace it, you can use a cap of greater voltage rating, but not less.
Just a thought.

Edit: by the way, even if the capillary is restricted, it could still be caused by a faulty run cap causing the compressor to run hot and cooking the oil.
Or it may just be that dirty condenser.

Gary
07-03-2009, 01:43 PM
I see no reason to suspect the cap tube.

For that matter we haven't been given enough information to suspect anything.

chancie owens
07-03-2009, 05:47 PM
Newer cheap 2 door worked fine 3 yrs, now too warm;dirty condenser-blew out;sealed system, hermetic compressor, no access valves, cap tube; searched-no leaks; compressor hot, discharge line hot, evap cold but not enough; no noticeable temp change along cap tube, no icing; I suspect partly plugged cap or oil return problem (condenser below). Tomorrow I will go back with tap in valve and recover, blow out cap tube,pressure test, change dryer; recharge.
134A is a pain.
on 134a the oil breakes down if the condensor gets dirty,plugs the dryer and cap tubes, you realy have to keep the condensor clean poe oil just isnt very good.

Brian_UK
07-03-2009, 09:27 PM
Also, OP Bvis hasn't come back since January 2006 - I think perhaps we are wasting our answers here....

ticotech
15-03-2009, 08:30 PM
get some piercing valve and check pressure, so we can have more info

Slatts
16-03-2009, 03:36 AM
Also, OP Bvis hasn't come back since January 2006 - I think perhaps we are wasting our answers here....
Well....
That was kind of embarrassing.