Show us your installs....

[frank]

Thought I would kick this off with a couple of photo's of a recent Ground Source Heat Pump rebuild. Original system failed due to a split BPHE causing the ground loop to mix with the fridge side. Had to provide a replacement compressor, BPHE's, safeties and pipework. Kept the same controller.
http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o38/frankyboy_01/Work/2013-03-15161603.jpg

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o38/frankyboy_01/Work/2013-03-15161818.jpg

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o38/frankyboy_01/Work/2013-03-20143637.jpg

[frank]

Here's a picture of the original layout

http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o38/frankyboy_01/Work/2013-03-15161625.jpg

[install monkey]

nice job, but u insulated the liq line! :D
feel free to remove this comment if you like

[frank]

nice job, but u insulated the liq line! :D
feel free to remove this comment if you like

Bu**er....could have saved some money :D

[Frikkie]

Wow, that looks a lot neater than my fridge units. Can I ask how did you get the tube type foam insulation on the pipework after it was welded?

[joe-ice]

Why add the oil seperator, accumalator and bypass valve? or are there parts hidden from view on the original

[frank]

On the original setup, we found that one of the PHE's was filled with oil when we disassembled it, thinking that it was short cycling, thus not allowing time for the oil to be returned to the comp, so we built in the oil separator to prevent oil carryover.

As the unit is reversible, we were concerned that, on change over (it doesn't off cycle to do it) the compressor could be susceptible to liquid flood back without the accumulator. Also, as it changes mode, the time required by the hot gas to push the liquid out of the PHE caused the LP switch to trip, thereby stopping the unit.

I have built in the HGB valve on a double pole delay timer which bypasses the LP and HGB's for 40 secs, which now allows change over without tripping/stopping.

[frank]

Wow, that looks a lot neater than my fridge units. Can I ask how did you get the tube type foam insulation on the pipework after it was welded?
You cut the insulation tube with scissors or stanley knife and then use glue on the seams.

[Frikkie]

You cut the insulation tube with scissors or stanley knife and then use glue on the seams.
Thanks for the info, I've also tried cutting and gluing the insulation but it never looks as neat as yours :(

[joe-ice]

Ok makes sense, perhaps a case of how it was made and how it should have been made.Manufacturers tend to lose a lot of parts to make their costs cheaper

[frank]

Ok makes sense, perhaps a case of how it was made and how it should have been made.Manufacturers tend to lose a lot of parts to make their costs cheaper
Spot on Joe.

Don't want the customer chasing me if the unit failed a second time because of poor design. ;)

[Grizzly]

HI.
If you are lucky you have a slitting knife, which makes the job even easier.
Ones like the attached are quite cheap here in the UK at least (around £10.00)
Grizzly
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab77/grizzlysj/slitting-knife.jpg

[install monkey]

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[monkey spanners]

Nice work Frank!

Was aiming for an old school look with this one...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pSBr5qB5OPk

Ice builder system,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFX9aRR2Dlc

Two more cheese stores....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U0GjSzIPtgM

:D

[monkey spanners]

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Linkies no worky!

[MikeHolm]

HI.
If you are lucky you have a slitting knife, which makes the job even easier.
Ones like the attached are quite cheap here in the UK at least (around £10.00)
Grizzly
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab77/grizzlysj/slitting-knife.jpg

I haven't see those knives here so i ordered one from Ryanairspares. Thanks Grizzly