daikin fault

[charlie patt]

2002 ryp 100 r407c wall mount on cooling runs fine pressures good all is well..... on heating is where it goes wrong condensor fan fires up on slow speed then comp cuts in then condensor fan shuts of and head goes of the scale till it trips hp it will rise pressure from 110 psi to 400 plus within thirty seconds its that quick..... pressures are being taken from service valves i realise head will rise with no condensor fan but the rise is rapid really quick the only other thing is on heat the evap fan stops the unit does not really run long enough for the return heat to cause the high head the system has had a new condensor fan and board and eev coil there is only one condensor fan on it and on cooling all is well runs well then on heat trips high head any ideas gents
HAVE TESTED outdoor ambient air sensor is triping variable speed as you warm it
sensors are reading correctley on hard wired controller
gas level seems good its fixed speed comp and on cooling air of coil ofseven to ten dc room at 22dc aprox
system has had a fan and board fitted by others and all seems ok plugs on correct and working well on cool also had a eev coil. it seems like its building head and cant get rid of the pressure any ideas gents

[install monkey]

indoor pipe sensor/coil sensor- in heating mode , indoor fan runs at low speed until coil at 33 deg then indoor fan speeds up
you say running in cooling mode is ok
check the fan scroll on the indoor unit is clear as they do get clogged- best way for cleaning them is to remove front cover ,drip tray and use warm water sprayed onto the scroll and some bin bags/rags on the floor,also evap coil can get clogged internally when the face of the coil is clean- nitrogen and a gaugeline is best for that- will dig out a manual and post it for ya

[Tesla]

Hi Charlie
I had a problem with an R22 unit with similar symptoms after replacing compressor, pcb, contactor, all capillaries, drier/filter and OD sensors. Using tech support and four different technicians our company could not solve the problem. I suspect it was due to a pipe restriction between the units - the pipe work was not accessible. I did recomend to replace unit first of course but the powers that be had different ideas. I would really like to know the result of your problem.

[frank]

2002 ryp 100 r407c wall mount on cooling runs fine pressures good all is well..... on heating is where it goes wrong condensor fan fires up on slow speed then comp cuts in then condensor fan shuts of and head goes of the scale till it trips hp it will rise pressure from 110 psi to 400 plus within thirty seconds its that quick..... pressures are being taken from service valves i realise head will rise with no condensor fan but the rise is rapid really quick the only other thing is on heat the evap fan stops the unit does not really run long enough for the return heat to cause the high head the system has had a new condensor fan and board and eev coil there is only one condensor fan on it and on cooling all is well runs well then on heat trips high head any ideas gents
HAVE TESTED outdoor ambient air sensor is triping variable speed as you warm it
sensors are reading correctley on hard wired controller
gas level seems good its fixed speed comp and on cooling air of coil ofseven to ten dc room at 22dc aprox
system has had a fan and board fitted by others and all seems ok plugs on correct and working well on cool also had a eev coil. it seems like its building head and cant get rid of the pressure any ideas gents

Are you referring to the outdoor fan as the condenser fan when it is in heating mode?

In heating, the outdoor coil becomes the evaporator, and receives the warm liquid from the indoor unit coil, which is now the condenser.

If the compressor is raising the head pressure from 110psig to over 400psig in 30 seconds, then I would say that you have a restriction. Check the reversing valve. As IM says, the indoor fan in heating mode stays off until the coil temp reaches 33C to prevent indoor cold draughts.

Can you see any increase in the indoor coil sensor reading during those 30 seconds?

[install monkey]

http://www.mediafire.com/view/?7nf9ci8lxv42c8s;)

[charlie patt]

the indoor sensor does rise but slowly but it trips so quick it does not have long enough to run i did fit a mag valve lifter on the 3 way and i did hear it shuttle across its the speed the head rises is bloody quick there are two testpoints on condensing unit apart from the service valves one just below eev reads the same as test ports bloody high and other is on condensor loop if blocked why ok on cool ? if i got the condensor fan on high speed to work is rises so quick it would not help i did also check the shut of valves where open after hp trip the pressures level does level in a short period there is a like for like unit beside it and when you cover the condensor it takes ages for hp to increase i am refrering to the outdoor unit that has had a new fan and board cheers im

[install monkey]

any check valves/strainers as charge would appear ok,reversing valve could be weeping discharge to suction- although you here the whoosh when u fit a coil lifter on the rv if it aint seating properly then that could be an issue.
there should be a dedicated common suction stubb between rv and suction on comp, see if suction pressure jumps up from standing when it starts up in htg mode.

[VRVIII]

What is the full model number, RYP100B/L/?
Is the 4 way valve energised when the hp is rising?
Is the purge solenoid valve (Y1S) energised or de-energised when the hp is rising?
Can you feel the temp increasing on the gas line going down to indoors?
As pressure rises are the same pressures measured at gas service valve and internal test point?

there are two testpoints on condensing unit apart from the service valves one just below eev reads the same as test ports bloody high and other is on condensor loop if blocked why ok on cool
Do you mean the press measured at the liquid service valve was similar to the head pressure?

These units have an E bridge circuit consisting of 4 check valves, the liquid flows through 2 of the valves in cooling and then flows through the other 2 in heating mode. I would suggest you inspect the check valves, the internals are plastic and can be easily overheated with a welding tourch when replacing another component. If they look OK I would check to confirm flow through the valves with a temp probe.

[charlie patt]

i can answer a few of the above you obviously no your daikins the model is ryp100lw1 sn 2406199 running evap fayp100bv1 wall mount i do not no if 4 way is energised when hp is rising or the y1s but i can check
the gas line is warming heavily as pressure rises the test point by the eev rises the same presure apart from coils and fans no welding seems to have been done but i dont no the history of unit thank you for your help

[VRVIII]

If the 4 way valve and purge solenoid valve are operating correctly there is a blockage/restriction somewhere in the refrigerant circuit, I would suggest you carry out some checks as the head press is rising to locate the problem

1. Check purge solenoid valve is energised for around 80secs at start-up

2. What pressure difference is measured with gauges connected to gas & liquid service valves? If >100psi the blockage is either field piping or indoor.

3. What pressure difference is measured with gauges connected to liquid service valve & the internal liquid pipe test point (local to EV)? If >30psi the first check valve the refrigerant should flow through if faulty.

4. If you find the measured pressure on the both service valves and the internal liquid pipe test point (local to EV) is high, but the pressure measured on internal gas line test point is very low (suction in heating)? The problem could be either the 2nd check valve, the expansion valve or filter just before the expansion valve.