Dont use leak lok its CRAP!!!

[WeNeedUnions]

1st...this product for reverse cycle split air con is CRAP!!! DONT USE IT YOU SHOULDNT NEED TOO!!! Why you ask? Let me explain because most people wont nor cant... Often what can happen is while the product is moist it can be the very thing generating the seal for the system and i am talking REALLY SMALL SEALS. Now when 1st applied the product works. How ever over long times on reverse cycle SPLIT systems especially on your vapour line(you know the bigger one lol) weather it be low pressure vapour or high pressure vapour depending on the mode cooling or heating.When you run the system on heating for a long enough period of time i.e 1-2 years and after weather exposure the product dries out and turns brittle therefor the very thing creating your minor seal is now lost and in turn the system charge is lost overtime from that hair line leak. Trust me i know from seeing it out in the field countless times re-fixing the leaks these (pro leak lok) mechanic's used in the first place saying to the occupant or client that this product would do the job. For people who dont read spec's or stat sheets to make it simple the product is only designed for low to medium temp applications i.e exit point of your expansion device through to the evap and entering point or suction of your compressor where the product will remain moist or at low temps and not dry out. I cant stress enough it is not designed for any part of the condensing side of the system i.e the higher temp parts of the system. Now a tip if the if you are getting leaks from the allen key nut under the caps on the valves outside of your little split use a product called teflon gas tape on the cap threads it will seal it...not standard teflon but TEFLON GAS TAPE its normally a yellow colour it has a micron rating like you wouldn't believe (READ THE SPECS) its magic stuff and the same goes for any high temp little fittings or caps. As for flare nuts add oil to the back of the flare to reduce pipe twist and if it leaks after using a torque wrench it is most times you the user 90% of the time who are making a bad flare or trying to get to much stretch out of a piece of pipe that is to small in length for what you need. The other 10% is manufactures flare connections i.e liquid line sight glass or drier threads and the male part of the connection that is bad from the factory when made. I have had that issue a few times also. If your wondering about a flaring block( i have used many and none compare) buy a RIGID 410A flaring block THE RATCHET TYPE not the standard its makes by far the best flare and is by far the easiest with the ratchet to use. I swear by it and so do all the other mechanics have have promoted it too and used it. In final the product should be banned ITS CRAP you can promote it all you like it wont change my mind ive seen it first hand countless times and for the people who use it remember its me 1-2 years winning or should i say stealing the clients contract from you cause you as a mechanic dont have any idea about the products you use or endorse. 1 other thing aussies we are 10 to 20 years behind in tech. The best leak detector on the market THE BACHARACH H10-PM I FINALLY GOT ONE YOU BEAUTY!!! The thing( older versions that is ) has been around since the 60's(Mine is the updated model) and still ****s on todays electronic leak detectors. Do your research aussies get tools from the states and stop buying tools from actrol/heatcraft/airefrig cause the stuff they sell is out of date crap and marked up 100% plus in price.

FLARE NUTS ARE NOT BAD YOUR JUST CRAP ON THE TOOLS...LMFAO

[WeNeedUnions]

Oh and if you have a slight frost line and your flares are cracking use a frost free flare nut( You know the nuts with the holes in them thats what there designed for!!!)

[MikeHolm]

Do you know how to use paragraphs?

[nike123]

My dear fellow, by my experince, Teflon (PTFE) is dissolved by POE oil.

[WeNeedUnions]

You could be right on some products of gas tape ill get the info on the stuff i use brand/ect i did read something in it about oils maybe its only the brand i use...god now i have to go through the garage and all my info folders to find it not a fun job.

[install monkey]

so - say no to smurf s*it!!- have you tried ny log??
:)
1st...this product for reverse cycle split air con is CRAP!!! DONT USE IT YOU SHOULDNT NEED TOO!!! Why you ask? Let me explain because most people wont nor cant... Often what can happen is while the product is moist it can be the very thing generating the seal for the system and i am talking REALLY SMALL SEALS. Now when 1st applied the product works. How ever over long times on reverse cycle SPLIT systems especially on your vapour line(you know the bigger one lol) weather it be low pressure vapour or high pressure vapour depending on the mode cooling or heating.When you run the system on heating for a long enough period of time i.e 1-2 years and after weather exposure the product dries out and turns brittle therefor the very thing creating your minor seal is now lost and in turn the system charge is lost overtime from that hair line leak. Trust me i know from seeing it out in the field countless times re-fixing the leaks these (pro leak lok) mechanic's used in the first place saying to the occupant or client that this product would do the job. For people who dont read spec's or stat sheets to make it simple the product is only designed for low to medium temp applications i.e exit point of your expansion device through to the evap and entering point or suction of your compressor where the product will remain moist or at low temps and not dry out. I cant stress enough it is not designed for any part of the condensing side of the system i.e the higher temp parts of the system. Now a tip if the if you are getting leaks from the allen key nut under the caps on the valves outside of your little split use a product called teflon gas tape on the cap threads it will seal it...not standard teflon but TEFLON GAS TAPE its normally a yellow colour it has a micron rating like you wouldn't believe (READ THE SPECS) its magic stuff and the same goes for any high temp little fittings or caps. As for flare nuts add oil to the back of the flare to reduce pipe twist and if it leaks after using a torque wrench it is most times you the user 90% of the time who are making a bad flare or trying to get to much stretch out of a piece of pipe that is to small in length for what you need. The other 10% is manufactures flare connections i.e liquid line sight glass or drier threads and the male part of the connection that is bad from the factory when made. I have had that issue a few times also. If your wondering about a flaring block( i have used many and none compare) buy a RIGID 410A flaring block THE RATCHET TYPE not the standard its makes by far the best flare and is by far the easiest with the ratchet to use. I swear by it and so do all the other mechanics have have promoted it too and used it. In final the product should be banned ITS CRAP you can promote it all you like it wont change my mind ive seen it first hand countless times and for the people who use it remember its me 1-2 years winning or should i say stealing the clients contract from you cause you as a mechanic dont have any idea about the products you use or endorse. 1 other thing aussies we are 10 to 20 years behind in tech. The best leak detector on the market THE BACHARACH H10-PM I FINALLY GOT ONE YOU BEAUTY!!! The thing( older versions that is ) has been around since the 60's(Mine is the updated model) and still ****s on todays electronic leak detectors. Do your research aussies get tools from the states and stop buying tools from actrol/heatcraft/airefrig cause the stuff they sell is out of date crap and marked up 100% plus in price.

FLARE NUTS ARE NOT BAD YOUR JUST CRAP ON THE TOOLS...LMFAO

[al]

Thanks to chemi i've switched to Nylog, good for PRV's:)

al

[Brian_UK]

Seems like someone has had a bad hair day. :)

[WeNeedUnions]

@ brian... Im just tired of finding this issue brian is all.

@nike123 i cant find the real docs on the product but yeah you are right somewhat... standard teflon is not good enough for fuel or oil seals, the info i did find on forums however was that gas tape is acceptable provided the surface is clean and applied properly and earlier prolly why it has worked for me because i degrease refrigerant/oil leaks just so the next mechanic looks for another leak properly and doesnt just assume... (hey theres oil there thats the leak)
Now today i did have a think and i think it proves your theory wrong (not insulting you just saying is all) my nitro car before the fuel filter i added i have a custom fitting coated in gas tape and it has never leaked in the 4 years of using the car i get it out every 2 weeks for a 2-3 hour thrash session. Now nitro fuel is pretty much the same as two-stroke fuel it contains oil as well as the fuel, 2 oils in fact now dont quote me on this because i cant remember exactly but i believe 1 of the oils is a synthetic and the other is a mineral and the fitting im talking about as well as has never leaked get covered in **** as well from when you blow exhaust gaskets, bolts come loose, dirt and grime picked up from the ash felt ect and it still holding as i type right now lol so maybe its the type of tape you are using man if its white in colour its not as thick as it needs to be...oh and only use it on a tapered thread not a strait thread they dont rate any teflon for strait threads Yellow and red tapes are thick enough but in saying that i hate the pink/red tape also i have seen water leak through that crap easily its useless. I cant stand when plumbers plumb chilled water and hhw systems up with.

On those systems though me personally i use the locktite rope teflon and just a dap and i do mean dab of mirror paste...why the mirror 5 years down the track when i have to remove the brass fitting from a valve or what have you or remove it from a tube bush it unscrews no problem which in turn allows you to freeze with out the fear of twist cracking a line and remove stuff easier than drain a whole building especially when its the iso valve thats let go.

[stufus]

Leak lok was invented for gob****es that don't know what they ate at , a bit like unions giving morons something to hide behind.;-)
Cheers
Stu

[Bigfreeze]

I'd didn't know that smurfs cum could be such an emotive issue.

[WeNeedUnions]

Oh here we go the union saga look i dont want unions for stop work situations and that bs unlike most cafe mechanics thats what i call them i actually enjoy being under the pump and under the mental and physical stress our trade generates on one self. The reason we need them is for one look at the apprentices we have coming through these days most of them have no idea because here in australia the industry is ran by a company called racca ( which if you actually research is a collective of bosses or ceo's of the bigger air con and fridge mobs they care not for your safety but only the next buck being made ill get to that in a sec) but 1st back to the apps big companies these days employ these poor kids as cheap labor and throw them with techs doing nothing but maintenance(cafe mechanics) these lazy bluff/rogue techs fly under the radar drink coffee all day and get the apps to do all the maintenance work for them now the problem with this is what does this poor kid ever learn (outside of tradeschool which over here is 95% theory) washing filters and changing pulleys and v-belts all day... sweet FA a monkey could do it. Now if unions were in our trade they would notice this and change things to ensure these apps were made to work with only break down techs who are out there fault finding in turn gaining the practical basics of fault finding they require before going out in the deep in like you or I. With these type of techs they learn how to THINK, use the best tool they have there phone, develop systems this is step a now for step b,they learn how to quote and manage paperwork better from just watching the techs they are with and last of all the little hand tool or tricks each individual tech has that others dont. When a tech as i was lucky to off takes this line the transition to having your hand held all day to being out on the road by your self is smoother and easier and less daunting(you would be shocked how many kids once after there app is complete leave this trade in aus cause the trade scares them and mentally believe with in themselves this trade is to much) especially with the trade being so broad now they are not scared to try and figure out how a system they have never seen operates i.e give it at least a crack before they hit the panic mode button.
2nd unions create our own trade specific eba...over here because we are ran by racca/bosses they can pull a shifty which allows them to either pay us under 3 different awards 1.the metals trade/sheetmetal award(the cheapest)2. cant remember what it is which is funny cause its what im on at 36.75 an hour but its the medium as far as pay goes or 3. the plumbing eba the best paying of the lot. ill ask you racca being a collective of bosses which eba do you think most companies use? Number 1. And what would you rather 29 bucks an hour 36.75 or 39 bucks an hour. I know what id rather.
3rd safety. I dont care what anyone says but we are in the MOST UNSAFE TRADE ON EARTH it is fact. With unions it would not be the way it is. Standards would not just exist they would they would be enforced...how many rogues have you seen out there these days i mean come on man these people are the ones that cut corners and when we go to fix there F ups we have to go through all the bs we do with the clients to justify why the cost of the job is so high and why it will take so long to fix because we have to do things by the book to fix it properly. If unions existed clients would soon become aware of proper procedures and safety standards to what is envolved in our trade and in turn understand why the cost is as high as it is.

[stufus]

If you think a union is going to sort that out you are sadly mistaken, give it 5/6 months for the dust to settle and all you'll have is bunch of has beens and were nver gonna be's patting each other on the back and making designs on screwing you and all those poor apprentice's over to gease their own wheels and line their pockets.
But each to their own I suppose.
Cheers
Stu

[Gibbo]

Regarding Ny Log the Septics seem to prefer that to what is used this side of the pond any ideas if anyone sells it in the UK just to give it a try.

Gibbo

[jdunc2301]

and this is the reason i dont come on here as i did a few months ago....

grumble grumble

[Bigfreeze]

If you think a union is going to sort that out you are sadly mistaken, give it 5/6 months for the dust to settle and all you'll have is bunch of has beens and were nver gonna be's patting each other on the back and making designs on screwing you and all those poor apprentice's over to gease their own wheels and line their pockets.
But each to their own I suppose.
Cheers
Stu

Exactly. Anyone who thinks they need a union doesn't understand how a union works. Unions look after the interests of senior union officials, propective officials and sometimes those close to retirement as they are the only members who might have enough clout to cause a bit of bother, usually because they worked with union officials back in the back. Its a ponzi scheme where the mugs pay in and the big dogs scratch their balls and take out. Everything goes up, nothing comes down. They are universally self serving and couldn't give a rats about individual members and have been the downfall of many countries economies along with their banking sector.

[Gibbo]

These cafe mechanic jobs drinking coffee all day do you know of any jobs going