mitsi heavy srk35 4 flash

[gwm121]

Hi all
id appreciate knowing on Mitsi heavy ind srk35 and 50 jz-s run from a multi, just installed, ran few days then
yellow light flashes constantly green light flashes in groups of 4 on indoor units.
indicates... thank u...
(im on hol without manuals and sat eve....)

[install monkey]

run light flashing constant and timer 4 flashes-discharge pipe sensor under 7deg- either short of gas, or stop valves not open

[install monkey]

http://www.mediafire.com/view/?6rcmr06fcy7bacm
service manual

[gwm121]

Thank you so much inst monkey, i feared as much. its not shut off valves left shut as ran on test some hours. Its taken 5 days to show fault, ..I find tracing slow leaks difficult, nitrogen at 1.3 working pressure 200psi? often doesnt show, could use spectroline leak detect flor dye?? ideas for slow leaks appreciated.

I wonder if on a mitsi multi scm125zj driving 4 indoors 35 35 50 50 if one can be shut off with the stop valves and l /n /sig disconnected during fault finding as the data says min 4 indoor, max 6 indoor of that size.

[gwm121]

oh also torr guage pulled to .5 tor and held at instal.

[install monkey]

r410a kit should be pressure tested to 40 bar- in heating mode the indoors can reach 35bar, slow leaks are usually flare joints- (unless its a 20yr old trane rooftop that took 2hrs to lose 4 bar and you couldnt hear the leak ,but pipe had rubbed through) try not to use spectroline as your fill ur gaugelines with dye,and usually cover urself in it too.
at 40 bar test you will find it- electronic leak detectors are good and really sensative- they will help when you cannot easily locate a leak

Thank you so much inst monkey, i feared as much. its not shut off valves left shut as ran on test some hours. Its taken 5 days to show fault, ..I find tracing slow leaks difficult, nitrogen at 1.3 working pressure 200psi? often doesnt show, could use spectroline leak detect flor dye?? ideas for slow leaks appreciated.

I wonder if on a mitsi multi scm125zj driving 4 indoors 35 35 50 50 if one can be shut off with the stop valves and l /n /sig disconnected during fault finding as the data says min 4 indoor, max 6 indoor of that size.

[install monkey]

check the resistance of the liq sensor and compare to what it should be reading at ambient temp first, then stick gauges on and see how it runs

[install monkey]

as for a mitsi multisplit- i dont know- ive took units off daikin multisplits and fujitsu twin splits whilst repairing/relocating, you are affecting performance when u remove a system.

r410a kit should be pressure tested to 40 bar- in heating mode the indoors can reach 35bar, slow leaks are usually flare joints- (unless its a 20yr old trane rooftop that took 2hrs to lose 4 bar and you couldnt hear the leak ,but pipe had rubbed through) try not to use spectroline as your fill ur gaugelines with dye,and usually cover urself in it too.
at 40 bar test you will find it- electronic leak detectors are good and really sensative- they will help when you cannot easily locate a leak

[gwm121]

hi instal, Ill check liquid sensor of course since its so simple, but in my experience its very very rare with Fuj/mitsi to have system problems just after start.. its almost always instal error...unfortunately. ill telefone tech for the resistance at 1 5 10 20 degrees on monday unless there is a way to get these figures of net on sunday, once again thanks for your help, appreciated.

[install monkey]

should be in that manual
but if it was only tested to 20 bar then ur flare nuts may hold at 20 bar but not when operating- ur gonna have to weigh out the gas- or if only a tiny bit in,top up with nitro using a 50 bar regulator, check outdoor flare nuts,also service valve caps can leak and the brass nuts that cover the service valves leak as they never have a gasket in them - if they leak ptfe tape will cure that- worst case its the indoor flares and theyre a pig to get at on wall mounts, good luck


r410a kit should be pressure tested to 40 bar- in heating mode the indoors can reach 35bar, slow leaks are usually flare joints- (unless its a 20yr old trane rooftop that took 2hrs to lose 4 bar and you couldnt hear the leak ,but pipe had rubbed through) try not to use spectroline as your fill ur gaugelines with dye,and usually cover urself in it too.
at 40 bar test you will find it- electronic leak detectors are good and really sensative- they will help when you cannot easily locate a leak

[Tayters]

If that's correct and fault means discharge pipe sensor under 7*C then this means a fault with the sensor or outdoor PCB. If low on charge (or restriction to give the same effect of higher superheated vapour back to the compressor suction) then discharge temperature would rise and normally trigger a fault when it reached the 100*C mark.

As for leak testing then I feel your pain. On splits I pump the whole system up then shut off the service valves. At least this way you can prove your pipework/indoor one way or the other. Then it's down to spray and patience or chopping the system up further...

Cheers,
Andy.

[install monkey]

thats why you should inspect every brazed joint, use insulation tape to mark the joints as once its lagged you forget, and dont rush the pressure test, at 40 bar u could have a leal but it will take time to show due to the volume of nitrogen in the system