Gree wall unit AC (wiring advice)

[Daz man]

Hi there folks,

I need some advice from anybody that has installed a 'Gree' air conditioner lately.

I know they aren't Daikin's or Mitsubishi's but to be fair they do, do what it says on the tin

and obviuosly I only install what I get asked to install by my company.

Today I installed a KFR-25W/NAJ31-K indoor wall unit and a KFR-25G/NAJ31-K condenser.

R410a refrigerant used.

the indoor unit comes complete with a flex and a 13amp plug top (so indoor powered first)

then I'm led to believe all I need is a 5 core flex between indoor & outdoor via an outdoor rotary isolator for local isolation.

My question is - on the outdoor condenser data plate it states LRA 17amps. I'm guessing LOCKED ROTA AMPS at 17amps?

So if I operated the system when completed, on initial start up will it more than likely blow the 13amp fuse in the plug top of the indoor unit?

Do I need two seperate power supplies? For example a 20amp mcb/fuse for the condenser and as is for the indoor (a 13amp fused spur)

I'm a bit old school when it comes to AC, I was always brought up on the condenser being powered first.

feedback GLADLY appreciated.

[install monkey]

power to indoor using ur 13a plugtop,ideally cut the plug off and fit a switch fused spur.
with power to the indoor unit there will be a power relay which switches the load -compressor.
3.5kw foreign units usually power to indoors,fujitsu did on the r22 units,now power to outdoor like most of the other brands.

[Daz man]

Much obliged.

That makes sense. I have done that - cut the plug off and wired into a fused spur (switched) mounted by the indoor.

Then my 5 core interconnecting cable will go via an outdoor isolator.

Thanks very much for that.

[install monkey]

no probs
"I'm a bit old school when it comes to AC"
you know 410a connections are 5/16 not 1/4 for your gauges and also aware that operating pressures are double r22
7-8bar suction and around 33 bar dischage
also the flaring tool has to be a eccentric rolled flare as opposed to the imperial eastman in the blue box.
not telling u how to suck eggs but just highlighting a few issues-the term old school is vague -happy installing!

[Brian_UK]

The unit running amps is supposed to be around 3.7amps and the LRA is only when you have a locked rotor so the unit will run off a 13amp fuse otherwise the manufacturers wouldn't be allowed to fit it.

Personally though, I'd go with the spur outlet as suggested above.

[Daz man]

Thanks for that Brian.

Don't ask me how, but I managed to find a company in Bradford who specialise in 'Gree' AC.

They are called ACD Direct. http://www.acddirect.co.uk/

There web page is really useful and I managed to contact there technical dept via e-mail, just to clarify.

There answer was as follows (word for word):-

Power to indoor should be a 16amp type 4 breaker, with the interconnecting being of 5 cores. 3 mains Live, Neutral & Earth and 2 cores brown & orange for fan and three valve, 5 in total.

They also included in a hyperlink including a technical spreadsheet.

I have to say the aftersales aint bad for a hardly unheard of piece of AC equipment.

Hopes this helps any future 'Gree' installers.

Thanks for everyones help on this.

[Daz man]

Hi folks, back again on this subject.

In a nutshell -

I installed a 16A type C breaker in a local consumer unit.

Then from the consumer unit in twin & earth cable (2.5mm) I wired to the surface mounted switched fused spur. but PLEASE consult regs dependant on how far your indoor wall unit is from your consumer unit/distribution board and if mechanical protection is required i.e armoured cable!!!

As posted earlier in the thread, the plug top was then cut off and wired into the switched fused spur (LOAD SIDE)
with the 2.5mm twin & earth from the consumer unit wired into the (FEED SIDE)

On this occasion there was a 'Aspen Mini Blue' condensate pump installed, so I also fixed a surface mounted fused spur (UN-SWITCHED) underneath

I then connected a piece of 1.5mm 3 core flex from the (LOAD SIDE) of the switched fused spur into the (FEED SIDE) of the un-switched fused spur. The pump cable which is 0.75mm. I then wired this into the (LOAD SIDE) of the un-switched fused spur.

So when the indoor unit is isolated the pump is also isolated for safe working conditions. Also the pump is protected.

PLEASE MAKE SURE YOUR SWITCHED FUSED SPUR HAS A 13A FUSE AND YOUR UN-SWITCHED FUSED SPUR HAS A 3A FUSE INSTALLED.

Then from the indoor unit to the outdoor unit I used 1.5mm cable (5 core) installing a rotary isolation switch outside next to the condenser (IP65) This I installed for safety reasons, just incase any future maintenance works were required on the outdoor unit - you haven't got to go looking for mcbs in consumer units, for safe isolation.

So when you look at your wall mounted 'Gree' unit there is trunking containing pipework etc running up into the ceiling grid at 90 degrees to the indoor wall unit with two surface mounted spurs fixed one on top of the other. This should satisfy your customers for aesthetic purposes.

HOPE THIS HELPS ANY FUTURE 'GREE' INSTALLERS

For all you experienced installers apologies for explaining how to suck eggs!

I do stand to be corrected tho!

[Daz man]

Also before I forget.

When our electrical engineer came to site to test the installation he explained that the LRA stamped on the data plate of the condenser means that 17amps is what potentially could be drawn if the compressor was to lock up (seize in our language) so hopefully either the 13amp fuse in the spur or the 16amp mcb should trip!