12k wall mount heat pump issue

[kylegap]

Last night we had a thunderstorm and electricity went out for about 5 hours. When it came back, I tried to start my Heat pump but it does nothing and the Timer and Opteration leds are always flashing... I turned off the breaker and put it back ON but no luck... all it does is flashing like this. Anyone have an idea if I can solve this?

Here is a video of the problem:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=52C7M2294YU


Thanks!

[kylegap]

Here is a picture of the details on the side of the indoor unit:
http://www.techproinfo.com/dossier_images/frio_msg-12HRN1.jpg

[r.bartlett]

http://www.durableltd.com/fichiersutil/files/msg_specs.pdf

[kylegap]

Ok, so I can find that when it does this it's because of the outdoor Condenser temperature sensor is open circuit or short circuit.... what does that means? can I repair this myself?

[frank]

If you read it correctly, it can refer to either the indoor air sensor, the indoor evaporator sensor or the outdoor condenser sensor.

You need to test both the sensors and the connections to determine which one is at fault.

The sensor data is shown on page 26.

From the wiring diagrams, the sensor on the outdoor is connected to terminal CN1 via a quick coupler and the indoor sensors are connected to terminals CN1 and CN2 (page 28)

[r.bartlett]

If you are too lazy/dumbass to google to find the PDF -which took me all of 30 seconds- I rather doubt you'll get round to fixing it. This is supposedly a professional forum. We are not a diy help group.

Try yell.com -or would you like to to call a local guy for you too?

[kylegap]

Many thanks to Frank,

I've checked it out with my ohm meter and the outside unit sensor is open circuit. No reading at all. Since the sensor looks welded to the condenser, I'll call someone in to repair it. Do you know how much I can expect to have it repaired?

On page 20, it's clearly said: "Outdoor condenser temperature sensor is open circuit or short circuit" when those leds illuminates alternatly.

I like to know everything before calling someone in.

And thanks to r.bartlett for the lazy dumbass comment.

Have a nice day.

[monkey spanners]

The sensor will be in a little piece of copper pipe brazed to the main pipe, held in with a little spring clip.
If its stuck in the pipe then you could fix the new one outside, sat in the grove between the two pipes with some heat transfer paste and then some insulation round it.

[frank]

had a bad day Richard? :)

[kylegap]

You are exactly right. I checked it out and it's installed just as you said. Anyone knows where I can buy one of these temperature sensors online?


The sensor will be in a little piece of copper pipe brazed to the main pipe, held in with a little spring clip.
If its stuck in the pipe then you could fix the new one outside, sat in the grove between the two pipes with some heat transfer paste and then some insulation round it.

[Tayters]

Seems a bit of a coincidence that this occured after a power cut. I'm assuming your test meter was able to read into the kilo-ohm scale?
It may be worth checking the voltage across the sensor. I reckon you'd have 5V across an open circuit sensor thus proving the PCB is sending out a signal voltage to the sensor. No voltage = PCB down and a fault code of sensor open circuit.
Power cuts/surges have a habit of knackering boards but not sensors.

Hope that helps,

Andy.

[kylegap]

I agree with the coincidence and I have some news. I've redone my tests and the temperature sensor is OK. I tested it unconnected and now I can read the with resistance on it. So I've tested the voltage with the sensor unconnected and I there are 3 wires, red, black and white. But the sensor only connects to the red and white wires. Black wire looks to be there for nothing. So, I get 5V between the red and black wire. But I only get 1 Volt between the red and white, which are the ones connected to the sensor.

I opened the indoor unit to test and both indoor sensors are good and both gets 5V.

So... you think that the problem is actually the outdoor PCB board?


Seems a bit of a coincidence that this occured after a power cut. I'm assuming your test meter was able to read into the kilo-ohm scale?
It may be worth checking the voltage across the sensor. I reckon you'd have 5V across an open circuit sensor thus proving the PCB is sending out a signal voltage to the sensor. No voltage = PCB down and a fault code of sensor open circuit.
Power cuts/surges have a habit of knackering boards but not sensors.

Hope that helps,

Andy.

[Tayters]

So the sensor reads correctly with an ohmeter means it's probably fine.
Normally they work from a 5V DC supply which I'm guessing your unit runs on also. Can't say why you get the voltage on the black wire. Perhaps the board gets used for other applications or maybe that's what the knackered boards do.

Next step for me before condeming the PCB would be to double check all the power supply connections, make sure the fuses on the board aren't blown, visually check for any damage. To double check the sensor I'd plug it back in then measure the voltage across it. Can't say for sure what it should be but maybe between 2 and 4 volts as I doubt you'd be at the extreme ends of it's range. You could try warming/cooling the sensor to see if it changes.

1V supply doesn't seem right and I would suspect the board has thrown a wobbler. I take it the CN1 plug only goes in 1 way.

The sensor will be used to tell the unit when the outdoor coil has iced over when heating inside, then it will defrost the coil and back to heating inside once the sensor registers 20*C or so. Unfortunately the PCB is set up to register the fault code and I doubt there will be any way to get round the sensor fault other that replacing parts.

If the further tests still point to the board being faulty the maybe an electronics engineer or TV repair type place might be able to take a look at it for you. Otherwise it's back to the manufacturer for parts.

Before unplugging/ plugging anything in make sure power is off.

Hope that helps,

Andy.

[Mudskipper]

As the sensor is connected to the outdoor PCB, most possibly the outdoor PCB is burned out. Maybe one of the fuse or capacity burned due to unexpected power cut.

It's better to change the whole outdoor PCB instead of wasting time in figure out which sensor or part damage.

[TiredGeek]

I wish there was some way to protect the units from surges and such, like the things we plug our computers into.
I know they are available, but from what I've seen it would be cheaper to replace a ASHP than buy a surge protector to save it in the first place!

[kylegap]

You know where I can find a board like this?

[Tayters]

Best place to start would be the manufacturer. There address is on the link with the manual in pages 1 and 2. They should be able to point you in the direction of a Canadian distributor.
Check the price of a whole outdoor unit as well. Sometimes the PCB's cost a bomb and the whole unit is only a few more notes, but you will need someone to install it for you unless you've got the gear.
Alternativley find a electronics shop who are up for repairing the board.

Good Luck,
Andy.

[MikeHolm]

Never heard of Frio here in Canada. It maybe a Chinese product imported by a small company in Texas (or somewhere that has no proper reps here). If so you may be out of luck. Where is the installer?

[kylegap]

It's a heat pump I bought on ebay and installed it myself. Though, I had a PRO to start it up cause I don't have a pump for installation.

I've contacted the guy who started it, he's supposed to call Goodman and call me back... Thanks everyone for the help. Hope to find a solution without replacing everything.

[FRIOUNITS]

Theres a company in Montreal who sells Frio mini split air conditioners by the name GSM Mechanical. Tel: 514-961-8269. I have to admit these units are made by a very well reknown manufacturer in China, (Midea Air Conditioning Company), and they are very well fabricated. I have been installing them for about 6 years now and have had very few call backs.
Cheers and good luck

[kylegap]

I've ordered aoutside unit PCB Board from this company and it solved my problem!!!! Thanks for your support everyone!