View Full Version : Diamond core drill

Andy AC
26-03-2011, 09:01 PM
Can anybody recommend a 240v diamond core drill? I've knackered another one. I hired a makita 8406 the other day, seemed quite good, and very compact and light.
For years I was using a bosch multidrill, took loads of abuse but clutch gave up, should have scrapped it long before. The one I've just ruined was made by a company called freud, it was a proper diamond core drill, but it only lasted a couple of years if that.
What do the rest of you use?


monkey spanners
26-03-2011, 10:19 PM
We've got a makita one, proper diamond drill one, had to get the clutch replaced in it after we had a labourer 'helping' on a big job, but it must be four or five years old now and still going.
I did fancy getting a hilti one but it wouldn't get enough use really. One thing with the main brands is you can get them fixed rather than replacing them.

Jon :-)

26-03-2011, 10:39 PM
For me it's Hilti all the way !
There is no substitute .Was never a fan one for all tool's.
Buy the right tool for the job and only use it for it's intended purpose.
I'm sure opinions will vary .
The Hilti stuff is expensive but in this case you get what you pay for.Ebay's always worth a look.
If the Makita is more your cuppa have a look here.
Happy shopping.

install monkey
27-03-2011, 10:55 AM
hilti te16m good for up to 100mm cores,all hilti stuff has a free service with 2 yr warranty.the more fixings u buy when u buy hilti stuff the drill gets cheaper.

27-03-2011, 05:49 PM
Hilti by far.
The best electric tool aver made.
Got the TE55 for large holes [ up to 100 in concrete] and the TE6 for small jobs.
They are the cheapest cause they last for ever and no need to repair.

Yuri B.
24-04-2011, 03:04 PM
Which brands' dry diamond cores do you use to cut (moderately) reinforced concrete?

install monkey
24-04-2011, 03:14 PM
marcrist core bits-i dont bother with the water cooling fittings-too messy!

Yuri B.
24-04-2011, 04:29 PM
marcrist core bits-i dont bother with the water cooling fittings-too messy! Hello
I agree, however, dry cutting is dusty in its turn.
I am interesed in dry cutting not big diameter holes in concrete, some 2" may be. An alternative (more unsightly, however) to the coreing is a demolishen hammer, masonry bit, and a rebar cuter. What to chose I don't know.

install monkey
24-04-2011, 08:24 PM
core cutting dry -just put a hoover nozzle and all the dust goes-a good cre cutter can cut through 10mm rebar-it does take time-dont have the drill on hammer or youll smash the teeth-put a 10mm pilot hole through and then keep the pilot bit in to save you going off course if it is a thick wall

24-04-2011, 09:48 PM
I have been using my Bosch for 15 years and doing up to 6" dry cores with it. Before that I had an AEG but I havent seen them for years around here. Watch out for the chinese bits as I have seen them die a horrible death pretty quickly.

As much as I like Hilti and i do have a TE5 and TE15, the repair costs are nuts.


Yuri B.
25-04-2011, 08:12 AM
core cutting dry -just put a hoover nozzle and all the dust goes-a good cre cutter can cut through 10mm rebarYou meant Marcrist cutter?
Just found Kern in Europe seems to make good wet cores.
Have not found yet however no producer who would claim their cores cut rebarred concrete dry.

install monkey
25-04-2011, 01:45 PM
i meant to put core cutter-no one claims to cut rebar-but trust me ive done 450mm deep holes 75mm thick with extension bars and gone through loads of steel rebar upto 10mm thick-it does slow the cutting down but does the trick

Yuri B.
25-04-2011, 04:23 PM
Thank you, then I'll probably be looking for these cores.

18-07-2011, 09:26 AM
Hi all.
Just seen this thread. We have been using a DeWalt core cutter for the past three years, and the only problem we've had was caused by a voltage spike which took out the voltage stabilizer and ultimately the motor.
Our normal sizes are 52 and 65mm, and even using relatively cheap diamond core drills, will go through reinforced concrete and rebars. The trick is not to expose the steel (you'll rip the teeth off), but leave it embedded in the concrete, and take it slowly.
Now in the process of buying some core drills from a company in Stoke. We'll see what they're like when they arrive!
Best regards, Graham

Yuri B.
21-07-2011, 08:17 PM
Sorry, I did not understand, you do not cut the rebar (but bent it aside)?

Have someone tried using a powerfull sds + drill and a water swivel instead of a diamond core drill machine ?

24-07-2011, 11:35 AM
He is talking of cutting through both the concrete and the steel together. If you remove the concrete then the core bit will bind and break when it hits the steel and is only cutting on a point, not across the whole circumference of the bit.

Must admit I tend to hire the larger coring tools, as I do not often have to do more than a 50mm or 60mm hole through concrete. I go and hire a big Hilti machine, they generally will do almost any hole, the last time I nicked a 25mm rebar at the edge of the hole, but luckily did not cut through it all the way, just polished it a little.

For my holes I use a cheap Makita dry core bit, and a Bosch SDS drill to drive it. Just let it run with no force, the drill is very good at getting it to core, with no need to apply more than the minimum of force to keep the bit at the bottom of the hole. If you do a King Kong then the drill will last 5 minutes. Mostly I use it to do brick, and with block it often cuts so fast I almost feel like I am going to go through the hole as well with it.

Yuri B.
25-07-2011, 05:17 PM
Thanks for the explanation, SeanB
You can buy an adapter with a water swivel for your drill and start using the Bosch as a wet core drilling machine. It goes better with water, and, no need to spend quite a sum for a wet core drill.

31-07-2011, 06:36 PM
I had Churchills ( rent a hole) in a while ago to drill a 110 hole for plumbing. Turned out the guys who did that raised floor had filled it partly with rubble and then made the top screed. When the thinwall core bit hit a particularly large piece that was able to move it did a spectacular job of making a core sleeve a collection of metal shards, most in the hole. Took an extra hour to get the core and the remains of the bit out, and to continue to the other side. Luckily the operator was using a very worn bit, he started the second part with a brand new one.

26-11-2011, 11:11 AM
I too use makita 8406..It is the proper diamond core drill according to me..And i am extremely fine with that..It is very light and compact too..