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still learning
08-09-2010, 07:11 PM
went to clean a diry mouldy dakin wallmount today , thinking that i would remove the motor and impellor, had the motor out a dakin wall mount before so , should be a piece of cake, how wrong could i be.
it a ftxs25 bvmb, year 2003 .
removed the circuit board to access fan motor cover plate, but found the other side of the plate ,is under the coil, and the bearing end on the left hand side is the same .
so am i right in saying that to get the motor and impellor out i have to pump down the unit and remove it off the wall to get the coil off. to remove the motorcover, the driptray , is also part of the backplate.
or am i missing something here??
i did clean what i wanted to, but not as well as getting the whole impellor off and scrubbing it.
i have another to do , so welcome any advice on dissmantling one of these.
i have done others before and they were not like this.

Andy AC
08-09-2010, 09:15 PM
I don't know why the smaller ones are more difficult, I had the same problem the other day. The ftxs50,60 & 71 are an absolute doddle to strip and clean/change motors on.
Top tip - if you manage to get the scroll out and wash it, make sure you put some anti-seize compound on the motor shaft and the grub screw. When you come to do it next time you will not get it out even if you can undo the screw.
Last year I was working on an ftxs50, and it took me and a mate about 5 hours over 2 visits just to get the motor disconnected from the scroll:mad:
I had got it moved but it had move too far for me to put it back and abandon it. I had given up on it and decided to smash the scroll just to get the thing to bits, then on the last try it came out. Motor shaft and inside of scroll hub was smothered in rust.
Simple service visit turned into a disaster.

Andy

still learning
09-09-2010, 07:14 AM
thanks for the reply, this is the thing , i did not take the scroll out , but cleaned it in place .
so would you say that its better to remove , a ftxs 35 or 25 off the wall to change a motor ?

Andy AC
09-09-2010, 09:32 AM
I'd say clean it in place.

Andy

ktm
09-09-2010, 10:16 AM
Yea to replace the fan motor you have to take it off the wall. Had to replace a drip tray in one before. Everything bolts to the drip so had to take it all off. Once off the wall it took about 20 mins very easy.

still learning
09-09-2010, 07:08 PM
many thanks for your help eveyone , this morning , i found a very old service manual in the work shop for a earlier series, and one for latter models , the newer units come apart better.(it would seem)
so it will be pump down or reclaim for the fan motor changes

brunstar
10-09-2010, 09:32 PM
When getting to the fan motor the real way is to pump it down but it can be done with the coil in place.

What you need to do is loosen the coil on the left hand side, remove the metal bracket on the left hand side and unclip the plastic that holds the coil in place.
Remove the pcb Box from the right hand side.
then you need to get a phillips head screw driver and undo the screw, through the return bends that is holding the water deflecter to the back chassis, you may want to get some putty from the coil to put on the end of your screw driver so that you do not lose the screw down the drain.
There are also 2 plastic clips on the right hand side that you need to push in to get the deflector out and you are able to now lift the coil slightly which will give you room to undo the grub screw and remove the fan scroll.

still learning
11-09-2010, 01:52 PM
ones is in a wardrobe (double doors) size cupboard , that passes as a comms room/ comms cupboard .
cheers for your help. goes to prove this forum works.

acnerd
11-09-2010, 02:18 PM
When getting to the fan motor the real way is to pump it down but it can be done with the coil in place.

What you need to do is loosen the coil on the left hand side, remove the metal bracket on the left hand side and unclip the plastic that holds the coil in place.
Remove the pcb Box from the right hand side.
then you need to get a phillips head screw driver and undo the screw, through the return bends that is holding the water deflecter to the back chassis, you may want to get some putty from the coil to put on the end of your screw driver so that you do not lose the screw down the drain.
There are also 2 plastic clips on the right hand side that you need to push in to get the deflector out and you are able to now lift the coil slightly which will give you room to undo the grub screw and remove the fan scroll.

Just what I did. It's a learning process. I have had just the coil hanging on a bit of wire suspended from the ceiling on one job; another one the coil was held up with a broom!! So far I haven't had to pump down and remove the unit from the wall entirely. :eek:

paul_h
11-09-2010, 02:53 PM
Sounds like samsung and hitachi units.
One good thing about fujitsu and panasonic is easy removal of fan motor.
I hate the units made without easy fan removal. I won't say how I handle it or what I think about those units that require removal (or bending the hell out of it) of the evap coil as it's not pleasant and too many expletives

Tayters
11-09-2010, 10:47 PM
another one the coil was held up with a broom!!

I hope you asked the mother-in-law first.:D

Andy.

Brian_UK
13-09-2010, 11:34 PM
Did an FTKS50 today, clean and replace the fan rotor - all went reasonably well.

Disconnect the vane motor plugs from the PCB, unscrew and pull out the PCB carrier.

Unclip air louvres.

Unclip the finger guards on the air outlet and using a 7mm socket release the locking screw on the motor shaft.

Two screws to release the motor plastic grips/support.

Other end, two screws for the bearing support, push in plastic locking tab and push plastic downwards out of coil A-frame to remove.

Big screwdriver handle wedged under the back of the coil to give rotor clearance.

Pull rotor off motor shaft and extract through gap at other end.

Unclip air direction vanes and pull out through hole left where rotor came out.

Good spray with Cillit-Bang degreaser and then reassemble with a new fan rotor. Do not refit motor support plastics until the fan root is in place; you need the shaft to be movable to realign with the rotor socket.

Took about two hours including walking down to the shops for some new torch batteries. ;)

Mind you access was pretty good being in a kitchen store room without much traffic.