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Abe
20-06-2005, 08:38 PM
LG Air Conditioner Model Number LTE246HL

Need confirmation of my prognosis on this one.

LG Cassette , the one witrh the small 2 foot square cassette footprint.

Customer says he saw water dripping out of cassette unit, and now whole system not working.

No lights indicating on Indoor unit.

I check power to outdoor unit which is ok. I follow interconnect cable carrying live supply to indoor unit, ok, . Inside indoor unit live goes into pcb board and the return to the compressor is via a junction . The return to compressor ( no 5 ) has no power. So power is lost " somewhere" within the pcb board.

I notice a water stain mark on the cover of the electrics box, am wondereing, did it fill with water at some point, and " how" ??

I look at the drain set up. The installing engineer has fitted standard 21.5 mm overflow pipe rising up probably 4 inches and then a horizontal run for around 2 5 metres, a 90 degree bend and then slopes downwards.

I think the water the pump pushed the condensate just so far, it dammed along the horizontal length, lost momentum, and came back rushing into the indoor unit.

My prognosis is the pcb board needs changing.........I dont carry such an item in my stock..........Before I go order one..........am I on the right track??

PCB board has one small fuse. I check it, its ok. Mind u I checked it whilst it was still on the board...........Did I have to physically remove it from its holder and then check it, or would the continuity check whilst it was in situ be valid?

Are there any other checks I can carry out?

Thx in advance if anyone can assist

freezy
20-06-2005, 09:41 PM
Good evening,

I thought the LG cassettes compressor signal(240v) was returned to the indoor and switched by the indoor control to the contactor in the outdoor unit, not sure on exact models.

frosty74
20-06-2005, 10:36 PM
i always remove fuses when testing them this is possibly a faulty pcb by the sounds of it is there a seperate board with a transformer is that faulty.
if air on probe is faulty signal would not be sent to comp
as for back up of water could also have internal pump fault
is there another cass on site you can pinch board out of to confirm your diagnosis not always good practice but somtimes helps

rbartlett
20-06-2005, 11:02 PM
you wait for a chance to post 'that' picture and two come along at once..!!!

oh so tempting ;-)

cheers

richard

smithgmp
20-06-2005, 11:05 PM
LT-E2462HL. R22 LG cassette.
Where is wired remote? It must be fitted but not necessarily used. Fault code would show on wired remote as CH followed by number and by flashing the power light on grille. Flashes at 1 second intervals with 3 second gap. Fault codes listed on flap of wired remote. Count flashes and look up code.

Sounds like float switch may have operated by overfull drain tray. This would shut unit down. Power reset would give it another try. If fault still in place unit will stop again. Could pull bung in bottom of drain tray and let water out.

If water damage not from full tray get unit running. After power reset, use house and left arrow button on remote to instigate test run - cooling for 18 minutes. Check suction pressure is above freezing. If below freezing unit could be evaporating too low and icing up on indoor coil. Ice build up could be dripping outsode tray.

Abe
21-06-2005, 09:27 AM
[QUOTE=smithgmp]LT-E2462HL. R22 LG cassette.
Where is wired remote? It must be fitted but not necessarily used. Fault code would show on wired remote as CH followed by number and by flashing the power light on grille. Flashes at 1 second intervals with 3 second gap. Fault codes listed on flap of wired remote. Count flashes and look up code.

No wired controller, only tv type remote controller
I have got a spare wired controller though, am wondering if its worth plugging it in......
The wired controller I have is one from another install which I never used.

Whilst were on the subject, is it possible to have the wired controller plugged in " and " be able to use the remoter controller at same time???

Abe
21-06-2005, 09:32 AM
i
s there another cass on site you can pinch board out of to confirm your diagnosis not always good practice but somtimes helps


There is another cassete nearby , but dont want to risk " playing" around and risking that pcb board.........This is not one of my jobs, so dont really want to crane my neck out, lest something goes wrong and the good one stops working for some reason...... But I get your point and sounds very sensible.

I " could" put it to the customer that Im willing to give that idea a try, providing I take no responsibility if anything happens to good pcb board.

Temprite
21-06-2005, 10:51 AM
Hello Aiyub

Had a similar problem with this kind of cassette about 6 Months ago.

Unit had wired controller and fault code was high water level.Unit had locked out.

Ran unit on cooling and checked output to condensate pump on indoor PCB which runs continously on cooling.Supply to pump was ok.

Searched for drain outlet which I found under a sink tapped into the trap.Drain was 20mm flexible conduit and only had a small hole drilled in trap approx 6mm.Pulled out drain and ran into bucket.

Poured water into condensate tray of indoor unit and ran on cooling to see if water was coming out of end of drain(which it wasn't).

Pulled condensate pump out of indoor unit and ran unit to see if pump was turning after finding pump not turning pulled impeller housing off and found pump had ingested a small piece of plastic, after removing this it ran fine.

Also was told by Lg tech support that someone had found a pump that wasnt turning due to the housing being too tight.

Hope this helps. :)

Abe
21-06-2005, 10:59 PM
Ok, this is an update.

I went back to unit, took out fuse, checked it. it was fine.

Then I connected a " wired remote controller " into system. When I connected wired controller plug into where it should go, I notice a plug already in there,

The jumper the installing engineer had put in the wired controller slot is the one which goes into near the transformer box and which operates the plasma unit.

So out it goes and my wired controller gets plugged in. The indoor unit light, ( orange) lights up and fans kick off. But outddor unit doesnt, it tries starting a couple of times, lasts only few seconds, thenm cuts out.

After a while the outddor unit cuts in and stays on............I connect gauges............reads 45 psi, therefore evaporating at -10C

Needs more gas........

Indoor unit belting out cool air.

I then remove my wired controller, and try remote controller.

No response, red light comes on. Light flashes 3 times.........

Anybody have any clues?

eggs
22-06-2005, 12:36 PM
http://www.refrigeration-engineer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2582

going back to the drainage problem ?
I went back to this unit again last night, pouring water out for no obvious reason.
Pump working, drains clear, could not get the fault to show itself when i was there, etc, etc, etc.

I am going to solve the problem by ripping the pile of Sh1t out and installing, free of charge a high quality Jap system.
In the long run it will save me money and give my reputation a boost, call it marketing ;)

cheers

eggs

frank
22-06-2005, 07:37 PM
LG Cassette , the one witrh the small 2 foot square cassette footprint.

Customer says he saw water dripping out of cassette unit, and now whole system not working.

No lights indicating on Indoor unit.

I check power to outdoor unit which is ok. I follow interconnect cable carrying live supply to indoor unit, ok, . Inside indoor unit live goes into pcb board and the return to the compressor is via a junction . The return to compressor ( no 5 ) has no power. So power is lost " somewhere" within the pcb board.

I notice a water stain mark on the cover of the electrics box, am wondereing, did it fill with water at some point, and " how" ??

Sorry Abe - but this looks like one for Marc's training seminars :p

P.S.

Called out to my first LG problem last night - it turned out to be a shortage of gas - Whew :D

Abe
22-06-2005, 08:09 PM
OK, Im getting near to sorting this one out now.

Three flashes, indicates remote controller communication error.

Im going again to site in an hour, will report back how I get on.

Andy W
22-06-2005, 08:28 PM
I was under the impression that the hard wired remote controller was an absolute necessary, had the conversation with my dealer last week.

Abe
22-06-2005, 11:15 PM
Andy,

Youre absolutely right
I put in a hard wired controller
System is NOW working perfectly.

The installers dont want the hassle of NOT putting the hard wiring controllers and leave them out.

Give the remotes to the customer and tell them to use those. Which I suppose work well.

Only in this case, the socket which should have had the wired controller plug HAD the plasma plug in.

The engineer probably thought he had a spare plug..........Ahhh it fits here............and stuck the bleeder in.

ong
30-06-2005, 02:51 PM
[QUOTE=Aiyub]Ok, this is an update.



After a while the outddor unit cuts in and stays on............I connect gauges............reads 45 psi, therefore evaporating at -10C


hi... i wish to know how u found out at 45psi...your evaporating temperature is -10degree celcius?? :confused:

Brian_UK
30-06-2005, 10:59 PM
[hi... i wish to know how u found out at 45psi...your evaporating temperature is -10degree celcius?? :confused:Pressure/temperature comparitor chart I would think.:rolleyes:

Andy W
01-07-2005, 07:31 AM
Pressure/temperature comparitor chart I would think.:rolleyes:Or your gauges.