HELP!!! Fujitsu ASTA24LCC

[9nick1]

Hi I'm in need of a little bit of help on a fault i created with an ASTA24LCC unit where I shorted line 1 to GND well putting the cover back on. Circuit breaker didn't act in time. so now the unit doesn't turn on. my guess is that the indoor units main pcb is cooked?? or is there a psu somewere?? however it still could be the AOTR24LCL outdoor units pcb or psu??

any ideas??

cheers

[Simply Cool]

Hi 9nick1, when you shorted it and the indoor unit doesn't operate anymore I would check the fuse on the indoor PCB. If it is OK then if you have power getting into the indoor unit between 1 and 2 then it should be the indoor board which is busted and the outdoor should be OK

[9nick1]

fuses first thing i checked all tested out ok. the unit is uninstalled atm as the room was painted n no point in painting around a non working unit. so from memory there was a negative reading on line 1 of about -50v (i think!! could b off on this one as was a little while ago) and yes polarity on meter was correct. rest where dead... not sure if i used negative mains or gnd for testing... could have done either way round or even both.
this reading from main unit is what makes me think its the outdoor units pcb?? or a psu if there is one?? as thats were the mains goin in fine n don't come out the links between the two units..


any ideas???
as places i've mentioned is where i would guess. but not a frigy... and that could add up to expensive guess work.. so I figured i would ask someone who might.

also any service manuals??? or pinouts for the lines and such??

cheers
any helps is appreciated!!!

[9nick1]

btw the -50v reading when i say i mean i could be right off as in different digit tho was defently a neg.

cheers

[9nick1]

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[nike123]

Where did you measured DC 50V?

You should measure AC voltage ( on AC scale of instrument) between terminal 1 and 2 at outdoor unit when indoor unit is disconnected.

[9nick1]

-50v ummmmm not sure now... rather while ago. probly between casing and 1 so probly just teh protental differance.

what should the reading be between terminal 1+2??? 230v??? or wat?? also wat is the config of these pins
1 positve
2negative.
3com
?????

thanks again in advance.

nick

[9nick1]

btw fluke testers so dc/ac setting so no worries there bout selectin that part :P i am electrican so do no my wirring **** just not a/c stuff but feel im confident with the right info i can solve this problem. just dnt wanna go in gunz blazin half ****ed.... my guess is the indoor pcb seein as the unit doesnt respond to remote or manual on button. will go test the outside unit and if the 1+2 line has power indoor pcb correct???

cheers

[bigor_2]

check termal fuse on indoor unit terminal.
It is between terminal#1 indoor unit and point TM1 PCB indoor unit (white wire)

[CELSIUS]

Do you need a wiring diagram ??

[CELSIUS]

Try this: Re-set the PCB----
Switch OFF all Power to the Air Conditioning Unit--
Leave Unit with no Power supplied for 5 minutes.-----
After 5 minutes switch Power back on.----
Did you hear a beep-tone, as power came on again??---
If a beep, there is power, but does not mean that the unit is working.---
To START Do NOT use the remote-control.---instead,
press the manual- button once ,to start unit.---
The unit should start up now.
If no start up after a few seconds, I suspect the indoor-PCB is faulty.
If you need a manual let me know.

[9nick1]

hey celsius. thanks alot for ur reply.
yes it would be great to get a diagram. ive been chasin one for awhile now.

as consering the terminals 1+2 reading its giving me no reading on them with the indoor unit connected. so no power leaving the unit. i do hear the caps fire up wen i flip the isolator on.

as ive come to guess from just lookin at it terminal 1 is postive out for indoor unit n 2 is negative so if no reading there my psu coulda hacked it... gonna guess thats in the outdoor unit.... (heh giv me the diagram already so i can stop alot of guess work)

bigor 2
did check fuses tho was just quick search. will check that one out just incase i missed it next time im there.

btw that -50v reading... hav no idea how i got that... after lookin at the unit again.....

thanks alot for the reply u guys... this is a rather embarrassing mistake ive been dying to fix.

[9nick1]

as consering the terminals 1+2 reading its giving me no reading on them with the indoor unit NOT connected. so no power leaving the unit. i do hear the caps fire up wen i flip the isolator on.

[bigor_2]

I spoke about the thermal fuse.
He hides under terminals.
He is cutting a neutral (N).

[9nick1]

yeh after reading were u say i can picture it. just not sure if i noticed it was fuse.... gonna feel like an idiot if its just that fuse tho will be good for the hip pocket heh.. will check it all out and let ya no.

thanks all for the info and celsius if you could get me that wiring diagram that would be the best help i could hope for... if i get that i believe i will be able to work it out as its obiviously an electronic compent but dont no A/C so have no idea of how she all fits together.

once again thanks alot for the help.
and please get back to me with that diagram please :D
cheers

[bigor_2]

rapidshare.com/files/389589581/ASHA24LCC.pdf
end line added point html

[bigor_2]

Unfortunately it is the European model, but the difference is minimum (only one wire:)

[9nick1]

so which wire is different and how so?? colour or extra or wat??? just so i know.
thank you so much once again

:D

[9nick1]

just having a quick look at diagrams. looks like the unit should have 230-250v between 1+2 well unit is connected??? with no reading there. psu is the bet on wats the fault.

just wanted to ask now n save me the trip to the job. if im on the wrong trail.

is this correct??? unit looks simple enough will be able to repair the psu pcb rather than just replacing whole lot. from looks of it....

[nike123]

-50v ummmmm not sure now... rather while ago. probly between casing and 1 so probly just teh protental differance.

what should the reading be between terminal 1+2??? 230v??? or wat?? also wat is the config of these pins
1 positve
2negative.
3com
?????

thanks again in advance.

nick

1 is neutral
2 is live
3 is serial signal

Between 1 and 2 you should have 230-240V AC
Between 1 and 3 you should measure and judge as shown on picture. You need Diode of 600V or more and need to choose your DC range manually on your Fluke.

http://i50.tinypic.com/300vcs4.jpg

[nike123]

just having a quick look at diagrams. looks like the unit should have 230-250v between 1+2 well unit is connected??? with no reading there. psu is the bet on wats the fault.

just wanted to ask now n save me the trip to the job. if im on the wrong trail.

is this correct??? unit looks simple enough will be able to repair the psu pcb rather than just replacing whole lot. from looks of it....

If you don't have 230V on 1-2 your outdoor unit wiring is damaged or bad contact, power supply PCB copper print is burned or fuse F100 is blown or your power supply line to outdoor unit is not energized.

[9nick1]

yeh, was the 10a fuse on the psu pcb.... dam that boards hidden well. dnt think the caps were all there was to the psu.... shoulda seen it... nothing left of the fuse glass just the clip in bits each in. replaced fired up and works fine now :D


thanks all for the help. coulda had this fixed alot sooner if new those pin outs.

bigor_2 if thats the fuse u ment dam right its hidden well...

very glade that was a $0.2 repair cost there. do feel like an idiot for having it out of service for so long over a dam fuse but hey better than needed a new board or something in it worth x1000 more.

once again thanks to all for the info.

cheers:D

[9nick1]

one last question just showed mate wat problem was and noticed the diagrams list it as a 3.15a fuse tho one i took out was marked as a 10a on pcb n t10al250v.

figure its a just a 10a and differance in models as my is the aus model..... tho not sure why it would be different as volts n hz would be same correct?? unless it doesnt get that hot over there n 3.15a of cooling does it n the aussie heat takes up to 10a of cooling power :P

also noticed i replaced it with fast burnin one.... crap thats gonna go once it gets bit of induction... oh well no wat the problem is now. the t10al250v a slow burning one??? or surge protection or wat... havent come across this prefix.... and a quick google rases more questions.

cheers again.

and again thanks for the help and all the info.