Which Core Drill Bit is best?

[Makeit go Right]

I have someone drilling a 65mm dia hole thro’ 500mm of brick and wondered which would be the better type of core bit. There are two examples of the main candidates:

a) Heavy duty tungsten carbide tipped core drill. http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p11934

b) Dry Diamond Core Drill http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p53432

Any comments of which of these you prefer? Which would offer a faster job on this 500mm brick wall?

[Magoo]

Hi Makeit.
Best option would be to contract the job out. One up cost totally chargable plus margin. All risk on contractor. Why create more greif than you already have.
Cost effective control is the prime thing.
magoo

[Andy AC]

Go for the diamond core, bit more expensive, but will last. Those other ones are really heavy, and you will need a huge drill to turn it.

Andy

[monkey spanners]

I'd be tempted to hire a decent hilti drill and stand and a diamond core bit if its not something uyou plan to do regularily.

[nike123]

Brick wall 0,5m?

Common guys, it is drilled in 5 min with Makita HR 4000 (http://www1.dealtime.co.uk/xPO-Makita-Makita-HR4011C-SDS-Max-AVT-Rotary-Demolition-Hammer-Drill-1100w-240v) series drill and this drill bit:
http://www.hawera.com/hawocs-en/Category.jsp;jsessionid=E37670E402E5C4BB2774FD80991D6925.s036-tc6?ccat_id=100864&lang=en
http://www.hawera.com/hawocs-en/modules/oragetblob.dll/?db=boptocs&item=MDB.m$attributevalues&id=6873,3681,20&mime=image/jpeg

:eek:

It takes longer to put drill bit in drill and clean it and put in case than drill brick wall with this tandem!

[al]

Nike, that bit is very similar to the "mace" bit i hire, very fast but dusty

It only costs e100 to get holes done here, i'd agree with Magoo and contract it out?

Alec

[nike123]

Nike, that bit is very similar to the "mace" bit i hire, very fast but dusty

It only costs e100 to get holes done here, i'd agree with Magoo and contract it out?

Alec

For 150E I do complete split system instalation with material to 4m distance.
And customer happily make cleaning after me.:D

[chemi-cool]

Brick wall?

Will take you a few minuets with Hilti heavy duty tungsten carbide tipped core drill.

You don't need anything else.

For concrete you need the diamond core drill.

Hiring is a good solution, Hilti is very expensive.

[Grizzly]

Hi Makeit go Right
Below it my reply to a similar post back in May Last Year. It is still relevant.
But if this is likely to be a one off.
Then I would follow Magoo and Al's advice!


From personal experience I prefer to still use the carbide tipped drills and if fed gently will happily cut through steel reinforcing ECT.

The trick is to have good quality bits and a good "pneumatic" hammer drill. definitely not rotary percussion.
I am lucky enough to own a couple of Hilti drills which are the muts nuts.
When the bits wear down or loose their edge I take the to a local saw grinding and sharpening company.

Who re-tip and grind them for a fraction of the renewal cost

Incidentally I purchased my 4" and 6" core bits from the local Tool Hire Shop second hand as when they wear down they quite often discard them.

I know a lot of guys swear by diamond tip bits and they have their uses.
But if I ever get the situation where one is needed.
I can always hire one!

Besides have you ever tried drilling a vertical hole (from above) with one, they clog up for a pastime.


In the UK the norm is to hire and avoid specialist firms unless you have to because they are very expensive. (sounds as if the Irish lads have more options on cost)
Good Luck Grizzlyhttp://www.refrigeration-engineer.com/forums/images/icons/icon14.gif

[jimbo82]

I'm certainly no expert but I got the opportunity last week to core a 2x65MM holes through 75MM of hard concrete and it was breeze with the tools we had:

-Cheap 650W "Dynalink" SDS+ Rotary Hammer
-Rothenberger SDS+ Diamond Core Drill Set

We drilled a slightly smaller pilot hole first and then loaded up the SDS+ arbour and diamond tip holesaw. Rotary drill set to DRILL mode NO hammer. Used a squirty bottle to squirt a jet of water on the holesaw every so often to wash away excess grit and keep the holesaw cool. I'm not sure if thats the right procedure for diamond tip tools but I'll be doing it in the future as we drilled both holes in 15min no fuss, a bit of mess (no airborne dust mind you) and no grabbing of the bit. I thought the drill would be too fast but probably because of its low power when you leaned into it, seemed about right.
I'll be finding one of these for myself now: an SDS+ arbour and an 80MM diamond holesaw to chuck in my $75 Ozito 850W rotary hammer. Can't think of a cheaper easier way to core holes for split systems. I'm sure the ozito won't like it but it is fan cooled :)

[Karl Hofmann]

I core a lot of holes and find that the diamond core borers to be the most suitable... The Makita drill that nike is ideal for occasional coring, its a superb all rounder but I have a Marcrist core borer, the core shaft screws right in to the machine, no chuck and thare is the provision for water cooled cutting.. I'm impressed but it is a single use tool...

http://www.marcrist.co.uk/products/machines/compact-kit-ddm3-ds150.aspx

Some bricks are as soft as cheese and will core in a very short time but the red semi glazed bricks that are common on many older houses are as hard as nails and can take hours to cut, especially if the drill that you use isn't suitable...

[nike123]

I core a lot of holes and find that the diamond core borers to be the most suitable... The Makita drill that nike is ideal for occasional coring, its a superb all rounder but I have a Marcrist core borer, the core shaft screws right in to the machine, no chuck and thare is the provision for water cooled cutting.. I'm impressed but it is a single use tool...

http://www.marcrist.co.uk/products/machines/compact-kit-ddm3-ds150.aspx

Some bricks are as soft as cheese and will core in a very short time but the red semi glazed bricks that are common on many older houses are as hard as nails and can take hours to cut, especially if the drill that you use isn't suitable...

What is purchase price of that drill?
It looks simmilar to REMS Picus S1

[Karl Hofmann]

What is purchase price of that drill?
It looks simmilar to REMS Picus S1

From memory I think that I paid about £160 plus VAT from my local electrical suppliers, but that was drill only, no stand..

[nike123]

From memory I think that I paid about £160 plus VAT from my local electrical suppliers, but that was drill only, no stand..

Pretty much same as REMS here!

[Peter_1]

Brick wall 0,5m?

Common guys, it is drilled in 5 min with Makita HR 4000 (http://www1.dealtime.co.uk/xPO-Makita-Makita-HR4011C-SDS-Max-AVT-Rotary-Demolition-Hammer-Drill-1100w-240v) series drill and this drill bit:
http://www.hawera.com/hawocs-en/Category.jsp;jsessionid=E37670E402E5C4BB2774FD80991D6925.s036-tc6?ccat_id=100864&lang=en
http://www.hawera.com/hawocs-en/modules/oragetblob.dll/?db=boptocs&item=MDB.m$attributevalues&id=6873,3681,20&mime=image/jpeg

:eek:

It takes longer to put drill bit in drill and clean it and put in case than drill brick wall with this tandem!
We're not allowed any longer to make holes this way Nike when working for everything government related. When you come through the wall, pieces of brick will brake and you wont have a nice cut.
We have diamond drills ranging from 25 till 250 and all what's bigger is drilled by a subcontractor. Till80 mm, we have a small hand machine to drill these but never with a hydropneumatic. never

[Peter_1]

http://www.marcrist.co.uk/products/machines/compact-kit-ddm3-ds150.aspx

This machine is sold under several brand names You can cut even through rebars

[nike123]

We're not allowed any longer to make holes this way Nike when working for everything government related. When you come through the wall, pieces of brick will brake and you wont have a nice cut.
We have diamond drills ranging from 25 till 250 and all what's bigger is drilled by a subcontractor. Till80 mm, we have a small hand machine to drill these but never with a hydropneumatic. never

OK, I see now how you boost your economy!;)

BTW if you want nice exit cut, you first drill from one side until last few inches and then drill pilot hole with small diameter bore (10mm ) and than from other side you finish your full bore hole. Still finished in 5 min (in masonry) without any damage.


:off topic:But, regulation is regulation. I am so scared of Entering in over-regulated EU that someone will always be behind my back and reporting my activities to authorities. Orwell "84" is really coming in to life.:off topic:

[Peter_1]

Don't get yuor point :confused:

[nike123]

Don't get yuor point :confused:

My point is that it could be done more cheaper (for masonry) than when using subcontractor and expensive tools and diamond cores. That same hole could cost like 50% or more of cheapo Chinese air-conditioner if subcontractor need to came on site for that only one hole.
I did not meant "you" as You in person, I meant like economy subject in general (if I expressed myself correctly).
PS. I was editing my post when you sent this reply.

[nike123]

This machine is sold under several brand names You can cut even through rebars

Yep, I bought Rems machine together with several colleagues to cut costs and to use it more efficiently. We are paying it according to usage (like leasing), and use it exclusively for drilling reinforced concrete and when pneumatic action could make damage to structure.

[Karl Hofmann]

I core a lot of holes and find that the diamond core borers to be the most suitable... The Makita drill that nike is ideal for occasional coring, its a superb all rounder but I have a Marcrist core borer, the core shaft screws right in to the machine, no chuck and thare is the provision for water cooled cutting.. I'm impressed but it is a single use tool...

http://www.marcrist.co.uk/products/machines/compact-kit-ddm3-ds150.aspx

Some bricks are as soft as cheese and will core in a very short time but the red semi glazed bricks that are common on many older houses are as hard as nails and can take hours to cut, especially if the drill that you use isn't suitable...

Time to eat humble pie..... My Marcrist core borer started to jump out of gear, so it was returned under warranty, a week later it returned still with the same fault so I have rejected the tool as not fit for purpose.. So I'm looking for a new coring tool.....Rats!

[nike123]

Time to eat humble pie..... My Marcrist core borer started to jump out of gear, so it was returned under warranty, a week later it returned still with the same fault so I have rejected the tool as not fit for purpose.. So I'm looking for a new coring tool.....Rats!

Stick with proved names:
Hilti, Rems, Makita (http://www.ukindustry.co.uk/makita/Diamond_Core_Drilling_Machines.htm)

[eggs]

I use on of these (http://www.screwfix.com/prods/28211/Power-Tools/Corded-Drills/Sparky-BUR2-350E-110V-1100W-Diamond-Core-Drill) at the moment.

Cheap as chips and been running for about 2 years now.

Eggs

[igi]

Hawera SPEEDX SDS-max is something new.....

http://www.hawera.com/hawocs-en/Category.jsp;jsessionid=5767E4A33C143F7293ED8A225EDC4026.s036-tc6?ccat_id=154828&lang=en

[igi]

or milwaukee

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/CatalogItem/Images/19765_48-20-5082-5089.jpg

[monkey spanners]

I use a dry diamond core cutter on brick, but you can get a tct hammer cutter that is similar. They are hollow in the centre so the drill doesn't have to work so hard.

[nick uk]

i use a hilti dd100 with vacuum dust extraction and water if im drilling concrete been using this setup for 6 years no problems b4 went through loads of drills