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trprph
06-02-2010, 05:22 AM
I have had this split unit about 6 months and it has worked great. We had our first snow and ice this week and the residual remained on for about 5 days. There is no ice on the external unit. However, when I try to use the heat, the defrost light comes on and the fan outside blows but no air comes out on the inside. The defrost light will not go out.

I am in need of some advise

back2space
06-02-2010, 06:07 AM
I have had this split unit about 6 months and it has worked great. We had our first snow and ice this week and the residual remained on for about 5 days. There is no ice on the external unit. However, when I try to use the heat, the defrost light comes on and the fan outside blows but no air comes out on the inside. The defrost light will not go out.

I am in need of some advise

How long are you leaving the unit on?

IN very cold weather it can be nearlly 10minutes before the indoor unit will start to blow warm.

The defrost light on the indoor unit lights up when the unit first turns on and is in pre heat mode... or when it goes into defrost. It also comes on when the unit has reached the set temp indoors and is on standby.

Have you got your temp set right and left it about 10minutes to kick in?

spimps
06-02-2010, 09:41 AM
If you are operating in heating mode with outdoor temperatures down to freezing you will get very little heat bar that being generated by the compressor so whatever the kwatt rating of the compessor is you won't get much more than that.

back2space
06-02-2010, 11:46 AM
If you are operating in heating mode with outdoor temperatures down to freezing you will get very little heat bar that being generated by the compressor so whatever the kwatt rating of the compessor is you won't get much more than that.

What a load of rubbish, my lg system has heated the entire flat to 22C with temps as low as -8C outdoors! its rated down to -15C

spimps
06-02-2010, 01:31 PM
What a load of rubbish, my lg system has heated the entire flat to 22C with temps as low as -8C outdoors! its rated down to -15C
Interesting,what model is that and would be interested in the spec ?
Sorry I always understood they were ok down to +5c ish then performance in heating mode
drops off,stand corrected if thats not the case.
can't remember the heating spec but found this on lg's site in the spec for a s24 split(8k on heating) min/mid/max output on heating,
W 3,605 /8,080 /8,407 Btu/hr 12,300 / 27,570 / 29,700
How is this interpreted in terms of operating temperatures?
BG

trprph
06-02-2010, 03:23 PM
I have left it on all day and the defrost light will not go out, hence no heat.

trprph
06-02-2010, 03:28 PM
Interesting,what model is that and would be interested in the spec ?
Sorry I always understood they were ok down to +5c ish then performance in heating mode
drops off,stand corrected if thats not the case.
can't remember the heating spec but found this on lg's site in the spec for a s24 split(8k on heating) min/mid/max output on heating,
W 3,605 /8,080 /8,407 Btu/hr 12,300 / 27,570 / 29,700
How is this interpreted in terms of operating temperatures?
BG


The model is LSN182HE. It is a neo plasma LG unit. That's about all I know. I was thinking it may be the defrost control board or a temperature sensor.

trprph
06-02-2010, 03:37 PM
How long are you leaving the unit on?

IN very cold weather it can be nearlly 10minutes before the indoor unit will start to blow warm.

The defrost light on the indoor unit lights up when the unit first turns on and is in pre heat mode... or when it goes into defrost. It also comes on when the unit has reached the set temp indoors and is on standby.

Have you got your temp set right and left it about 10minutes to kick in?

I have left it on all day. The temperature outside was 40+ and still the defrost light comes on. When the unit comes on, I set the temp to 70 and the defrost light comes on.

back2space
06-02-2010, 05:35 PM
Interesting,what model is that and would be interested in the spec ?
Sorry I always understood they were ok down to +5c ish then performance in heating mode
drops off,stand corrected if thats not the case.
can't remember the heating spec but found this on lg's site in the spec for a s24 split(8k on heating) min/mid/max output on heating,
W 3,605 /8,080 /8,407 Btu/hr 12,300 / 27,570 / 29,700
How is this interpreted in terms of operating temperatures?
BG

You lose output on all the inverter units below 5C but the performance drop off is not very much.

http://mylg.co.uk/data%20for%20site/multi%20f%202008%20outdoor.pdf

Page 60 you should look at.

Its the capacity tables as the temp drops off, at different temps.

AbsoluteWDJ
06-02-2010, 09:00 PM
I have had this split unit about 6 months and it has worked great. We had our first snow and ice this week and the residual remained on for about 5 days. There is no ice on the external unit. However, when I try to use the heat, the defrost light comes on and the fan outside blows but no air comes out on the inside. The defrost light will not go out.

I am in need of some advise

See if the system operates in cooling. If you get no duty in cooling then I would say you might be looking at a refrigerant issue. The defrost light is also a pre heat indication. It sounds as if the indoor coil is not getting up to temperature this could be either a sensor issue or refrigerant issue. If system works in cooling then you can eliminate refrigerant issue.

back2space
06-02-2010, 09:08 PM
See if the system operates in cooling. If you get no duty in cooling then I would say you might be looking at a refrigerant issue. The defrost light is also a pre heat indication. It sounds as if the indoor coil is not getting up to temperature this could be either a sensor issue or refrigerant issue. If system works in cooling then you can eliminate refrigerant issue.

Can you feel if the coil is getting warm?

Usually you can feel through the filter if its warm or not.

trprph
06-02-2010, 09:10 PM
See if the system operates in cooling. If you get no duty in cooling then I would say you might be looking at a refrigerant issue. The defrost light is also a pre heat indication. It sounds as if the indoor coil is not getting up to temperature this could be either a sensor issue or refrigerant issue. If system works in cooling then you can eliminate refrigerant issue.

It does not appear to be cooling either. I took the top off of the unit outside and pressed a small button on the curcuit board and it makes the heat work, but it does not regulate the temerature.

I do not know what's going on.

trprph
06-02-2010, 09:17 PM
Can you feel if the coil is getting warm?

Usually you can feel through the filter if its warm or not.

I'll check and see

trprph
06-02-2010, 09:21 PM
No. It's not warm. Will it get warm even if no air is coming out?

back2space
06-02-2010, 09:32 PM
No. It's not warm. Will it get warm even if no air is coming out?

Yes the coil should feel warm and air doesnt blow out straight away as it pre heats the coil so you dont feel cold draughts, if the coil isnt getting up to temperature then it will stop the fan blowing so the air doenst feel cold.

trprph
07-02-2010, 04:59 AM
Yes the coil should feel warm and air doesnt blow out straight away as it pre heats the coil so you dont feel cold draughts, if the coil isnt getting up to temperature then it will stop the fan blowing so the air doenst feel cold.

It definetly is not getting warm. The wierd thing is I pushed a button on the curcuit bourd on the outside unit and it blew hot air. I think I may be dealing with some type of sensor problem. What do you think?

Is there a sensor on the inside unit coil?

back2space
07-02-2010, 05:13 AM
It definetly is not getting warm. The wierd thing is I pushed a button on the curcuit bourd on the outside unit and it blew hot air. I think I may be dealing with some type of sensor problem. What do you think?

Is there a sensor on the inside unit coil?

There are several on the indoor coil and outdoor coil however may not be visible without taking the unit apart.

Best to get someone in to check.

trprph
07-02-2010, 05:29 AM
that's what I was trying to avoid because they are charging me a rediculous service and labor fee, but the part is free due to the warranty. go figure.

back2space
07-02-2010, 06:28 AM
that's what I was trying to avoid because they are charging me a rediculous service and labor fee, but the part is free due to the warranty. go figure.

Can you find someone else?

fridge doctor
07-02-2010, 09:38 AM
Hi,

Can you clarify what is happening. Your post is not making sense. On the one hand you are saying the coil isn't warm, and elsewhere you say that you pressed a button and it blew hot air?? Perhaps you meant the outdoor unit blew hot air ?.

First test: Raise the indoor flap, remove the RH side filter and look for a small encapsulated thermistor set just off the coil fins. Turn the unit on to cooling, and hold the thermistor between finger and thumb. You may have to wait a few minutes... The indoor fan will come on of course, but we are trying to establish whether the unit will cool or not. I know you tried this before, but if the room temp is not warm enough cooling will not occur. hence the thermistor test. Let us know what you find, and clear up the blow hot air thing...

paul_h
07-02-2010, 05:51 PM
A split won't go on proper defrost for at least 40min operation.
If it's indicating defrost before that, it either a) in pre heat mode and not moving from that mode due to lack of refrigerant, compressor or fan operation, or the reversing vale is not operating. or b) faulty control PCB or thermistors.

edit eg if the indoor coil gets hot, but the fan doesn't start, it's either the indoor coil thermistor faulty or the gas charge is low due to leak (or compressor or rv fault) that the coil doesn't quite get hot enough to start the heating cycle.

spimps
07-02-2010, 07:05 PM
You lose output on all the inverter units below 5C but the performance drop off is not very much.

http://mylg.co.uk/data%20for%20site/multi%20f%202008%20outdoor.pdf

Page 60 you should look at.

Its the capacity tables as the temp drops off, at different temps.
Cheers,never paid enough attention to the figures,seems like roughly around a 20% drop off at -7c ish so it's better than I thought.can sell for heating with a little less worry now.

back2space
07-02-2010, 07:23 PM
Cheers,never paid enough attention to the figures,seems like roughly around a 20% drop off at -7c ish so it's better than I thought.can sell for heating with a little less worry now.

Your best off oversizing the system slightly to allow for the drop off.

trprph
08-02-2010, 03:20 AM
Hi,

Can you clarify what is happening. Your post is not making sense. On the one hand you are saying the coil isn't warm, and elsewhere you say that you pressed a button and it blew hot air?? Perhaps you meant the outdoor unit blew hot air ?.

First test: Raise the indoor flap, remove the RH side filter and look for a small encapsulated thermistor set just off the coil fins. Turn the unit on to cooling, and hold the thermistor between finger and thumb. You may have to wait a few minutes... The indoor fan will come on of course, but we are trying to establish whether the unit will cool or not. I know you tried this before, but if the room temp is not warm enough cooling will not occur. hence the thermistor test. Let us know what you find, and clear up the blow hot air thing...


Ok. The unit will not blow hot air or cold air. While investigating the situation, I took the top cover off of the unit outside to have a look inside. I noticed a curciut board on the backside of the front of the unit (on the inside); it had a green and yellow lED light on it. I also saw a small square botton. I pushed the button and it caused the green red light to com on. Pushed it again and it caused the green light to come on and againg and both lights came on.

After pushing it a few times and going back to the inside unit, I figured out that when I pushed it a few times; the heat would blow inside. The wierd thing is that the display on the inside unit will go off anf the air panel will shut, but the hot air continues to blow. I fugure it's some type of over-ride?

Anyway, that's where I am at now. By the way, I did the first test you ask and got no cold air.

trprph
08-02-2010, 03:28 AM
Correction: Green and Red LED light . Sorry.

back2space
08-02-2010, 04:45 AM
Correction: Green and Red LED light . Sorry.

Are the red/green lights flashing at all?

http://mylg.co.uk/data%20for%20site/Universal%20&%20Multi%20Split%20Fault%20Codes%20-%20April%202007%20_gh-km_.pdf

Page 2 shows the fault codes on the outdoor unit if there is any.

nike123
08-02-2010, 03:15 PM
If system works in cooling then you can eliminate refrigerant issue.

No you cannot! Since different volumes of parts involved when cooling or heating there is also different amount of refrigerant required, and therefore, that diagnostic method is inconclusive. Only certain way to determine correct refrigerant amount is by recover and weigh it.

nike123
08-02-2010, 03:29 PM
that's what I was trying to avoid because they are charging me a rediculous service and labor fee, but the part is free due to the warranty. go figure.

What a funny warranty!:D
Did you got some discount when you bought that unit with that warranty.

And, please stop pressing buttons without knowing what they mean and do. Imagine yourself in saw-mill and pressing every possible button.:eek:

AbsoluteWDJ
11-02-2010, 10:55 PM
No you cannot! Since different volumes of parts involved when cooling or heating there is also different amount of refrigerant required, and therefore, that diagnostic method is inconclusive. Only certain way to determine correct refrigerant amount is by recover and weigh it.


I some how sense that the guy has no refrigerant recovery machine or scales Nike. I'm giving the guy ideas of what to check! I would also say if the end user can detect their unit cooling then there would be refrigerant within the system but maybe I'm wrong!:D

nike123
11-02-2010, 11:34 PM
I some how sense that the guy has no refrigerant recovery machine or scales Nike. I'm giving the guy ideas of what to check! I would also say if the end user can detect their unit cooling then there would be refrigerant within the system but maybe I'm wrong!:D
No, you are not wrong in that part. But you are wrong in this:
If system works in cooling then you can eliminate refrigerant issue.
I only said that fact that unit is cooling doesn't mean that refrigerant amount is correct.

Also, I did not said that HE should recover or weigh system. ;)

scott1
12-02-2010, 01:52 PM
I think you can contact to the store where you bought unit?? the

trprph
27-03-2010, 12:32 AM
Finally working. It was a sensor on the outside blower. The voltage was off, hence it was reading the wrong temperature.