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Advical
22-01-2010, 01:03 AM
Hi there,

I hope somebody can help me. I was called to look at a carrier ac that was not responding to remote control. But if you pressed the test or emergency buttons it would start and run fine. I have found that there is a constant red flashing LED on the PCB of the indoor. I tried replaceing the IR circuit board but that has not helped. Next I shall try the Main PCB. Now I have a second Carrier Ac doing the same thing at another location. Can somebody please help me?
:rolleyes:

Magoo
22-01-2010, 02:21 AM
Change the battery in the remote might help. They don't last forever.

Brian_UK
22-01-2010, 09:08 PM
Model number ?

If I remember my limited Carrier indoor knowledge they can do that a lot without much help from the manuals.

Advical
31-01-2010, 05:20 AM
The Model is a 42g150hp (53g150hp) if that helps. I cannot find any manuals on it. Thanks for the reply.

Advical
31-01-2010, 05:24 AM
Changing the battery was the first thing I did. No joy there. I wish it was that simple.

Bunyamyn
28-02-2010, 08:17 AM
We have Carrier chillers Model: 30RA-200-BO244-PEE, supplied from M/s Carrier Africa. The problem is water penetrated to cooling circuit from evaporator(heat exchanger) recently 2 chiller units were malfunctioned due to same course. So, some please help me for assist to solve this problem. In Maldives Chiller systems having same problem, previously used RC chiller (Italy) as the happened I mentioned.
What are the factors I have to check?

Toosh
28-02-2010, 09:18 AM
We have Carrier chillers Model: 30RA-200-BO244-PEE, supplied from M/s Carrier Africa. The problem is water penetrated to cooling circuit from evaporator(heat exchanger) recently 2 chiller units were malfunctioned due to same course. So, some please help me for assist to solve this problem. In Maldives Chiller systems having same problem, previously used RC chiller (Italy) as the happened I mentioned.
What are the factors I have to check?


Have you checked the tubes for leaks its sounds as if it has frozen up and burst the tubes, and check the safety switches

Toosh

Bunyamyn
28-02-2010, 11:31 AM
its hard to find leak, becouse totally sealed the heat exchanger,there is noway to check for leak inside it.only we noticed system low pressure dropping & shutdown the cooling circuit

Toosh
28-02-2010, 07:26 PM
its hard to find leak, becouse totally sealed the heat exchanger,there is noway to check for leak inside it.only we noticed system low pressure dropping & shutdown the cooling circuit

Does the refrigerant flow through the tubes. you will need to remove the insulation to get to the end plate. Also with this happening before it sounds like a water flow problem.
But not being there its hard to diagnose

Toosh

low0tech
28-02-2010, 08:20 PM
If pressure drops suddenly doesn't necessary means the RA has a broken evaporator.You should check the filter and also the sight-glass. Then if it froze up i think then you can do nothing about it.

Toosh
28-02-2010, 09:21 PM
its hard to find leak, becouse totally sealed the heat exchanger,there is noway to check for leak inside it.only we noticed system low pressure dropping & shutdown the cooling circuit

Well how do you know its moisture has the compressor oil changed colour. if it is a murky creamy colour then its moisture

Toosh

Bunyamyn
01-03-2010, 05:02 PM
4 chiller units breakdown of evaporator cracked & water penetrated to refrigerant (gas)circuit.
havent noticed any problem from hydraunic module.
the water we are using is desalinated,but its not acidic.
All Ineed to know motive of this issue.
whether it might acourse of water camistry?
In maldidives we having bad experience of using chiller system.

Toosh
01-03-2010, 07:25 PM
4 chiller units breakdown of evaporator cracked & water penetrated to refrigerant (gas)circuit.
havent noticed any problem from hydraunic module.
the water we are using is desalinated,but its not acidic.
All Ineed to know motive of this issue.
whether it might acourse of water camistry?
In maldidives we having bad experience of using chiller system.

HI In Saudi Arabia we used desalinated water on over 60 large centrifugal chillers with no problems, I think you will need to cut open chiller to find exact cause then go from there.

Toosh

Toosh
02-03-2010, 12:35 AM
Hi again Have you had an analysis of the water to see if there is a reaction between the copper and steel in in the evaporator, also you may have to use water treatment in the chilled water

Toosh

Toosh
02-03-2010, 11:38 PM
4 chiller units breakdown of evaporator cracked & water penetrated to refrigerant (gas)circuit.
havent noticed any problem from hydraunic module.
the water we are using is desalinated,but its not acidic.
All Ineed to know motive of this issue.
whether it might acourse of water camistry?
In maldidives we having bad experience of using chiller system.

Hi You mention the evaporator cracked can you be more specific on where it cracked

Toosh

Bunyamyn
11-03-2010, 08:58 PM
Hi You mention the evaporator cracked can you be more specific on where it cracked

Toosh
I have seen just edgs of the evaporator gas coil a crack, the part which was coonnected distributer plate.

Toosh
11-03-2010, 09:10 PM
I have seen just edgs of the evaporator gas coil a crack, the part which was coonnected distributer plate.

Im confused is this a shell and tube evaporator with the refrigerant flowing through the tubes

kkeithd2
12-03-2010, 12:52 AM
Changing the battery was the first thing I did. No joy there. I wish it was that simple.
To test infra red controllers point it at the lens of ya camera on mobile phone, press any button whilst looking at phone screen and you should see light flashing on the controller

paul_h
12-03-2010, 03:07 PM
Hi there,

I hope somebody can help me. I was called to look at a carrier ac that was not responding to remote control. But if you pressed the test or emergency buttons it would start and run fine. I have found that there is a constant red flashing LED on the PCB of the indoor. I tried replaceing the IR circuit board but that has not helped. Next I shall try the Main PCB. Now I have a second Carrier Ac doing the same thing at another location. Can somebody please help me?
:rolleyes:
Need to change the main PCB. I've never had a lot of luck repairing these things otherwise.
I learnt a few things here from nike about recievers and capacitors, those tricks work fine with mits and fujitsu units (solder in a new capacitor, and then a new reciever)
But with LG/kelvinator and carrier (which don't have a capacitor in the reciever circuit, and nothing stands out on the main PCB as the capacitor for the remote), you just have to change the main PCB.

I carry a soldering iron around and use it as much as I do my gauges these days. Fuji ducted with the solid state relay, stuff paying $100 for the PCB, the sharp relay is $16. Shorted diode bridge in a fuji? $6.
Breezair evap cooler not working, probably just the $8 TRIAC, stuff paying $400 for a whole new control system. ( A company called tekelec makes most of the PCBs for all different evap coolers here, try looking up www.tekelek.com.au they don't want to talk to anyone, too busy making control systems in europe and the USA to bother providing service here, and all the evap cooler maunfacturers keep selling "upgrades" of tekeleks inferior stuff to the new model, meaning huge expense for a simple PCB fault in an evap cooler, the PCBs seriously have like 4 components in them for fan speed control, and they charge $400 for a wall control or wireless remote control, prices that worldwide refrigeration split systems would be ashamed off. I wish I knew an electronics guru to take those PCBs to pieces and get rid of the tekelek scam.).

But anyway, what I'm saying is that even though I do stuff around changing components on PCBs, I've never got a carrier a/c which is not recieving the remote signal working buy changing the IR sensor or capacitors. Getting them to work without changing the main PCB is above my knowledge.

edit:
Also, heres a tip, buy a universal remote to carry around and test with, if it doesn't work with that, the main PCB needs replacing. The best/cheapest universal remote are from www.dealextreme.com
these ones http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.14835 are US$7 (shipping is free but takes 3 weeks)and have louvre swing and backlight unlike the rest. Those remotes even work with the really old sliding switches in daikin/fuji a/cs out there, so I've bought heaps to sell to customers with really old gear they want to fix cheap.

ivan1974
15-03-2010, 10:22 AM
Have you checked "flow switch"? If there is an issue with flow switch it is possible for water freezing. Except continiously flashing of RED light on the PCB do have any alarms on the PRO-Dialog?

muju
24-03-2010, 08:10 PM
r u people talking of chillers or split units? its so confusing, 1 question at a time please

Toosh
24-03-2010, 11:24 PM
r u people talking of chillers or split units? its so confusing, 1 question at a time please


This arises when someone jumps into a thread and not starting a new one :eek:

tradybrad
31-03-2010, 07:42 AM
remember there can be dipswitch s where batteries r for remote control i think most carrier splits have this feature a and b dipswitch by memory sometimes when changing batteries etc this setting can be changed stopping signal getting to reciever on indoor unit more than likely though sounds like main pcb

Mathew
31-03-2010, 10:27 AM
Advical,
If you follow the below link, it will take you to the service manual for this unit. The manual has a different model, but it is the same unit (they are re-model numbered overseas).
eto.carrier.com/litterature/Service_Manuals/AEM001E1.pdf
Remeber to put http in front. I am unable to do this, not enough posts.
Regards
Mat