how to tell what kind of flare i need?

[cadillackid]

one of units has a flare leak at the indoor unit (argh!!!).. (noticed a little oil on the fitting).. sure enough electronic leak detector confirmed my fear.. it leaks...

tried putting a little more tightness on the nut.. no joy!.. reclaimed the system, pulled the fitting apart doesnt look cracked or burred or such.. put it back together, holds deep vacuum but under high pressure of heat cycle it leaks..

so my thought was to cut it off and braze the fitting but manufacturer will Void the warranty (unit is brand new) as they say they cannot guarantee that service techs will braze under nitrogen purge assuring contaminants from brazing dont enter the system...

so thought was to make a new flare... however I do not know and it isnt stated anywhere if this unit uses a 37 degree or 45 degree flare.....

its one of my 3 chinese Chigo minisplit 410A systems.. am I to assume it is a 45 degree flare?

or is it worth "leak-locking" the existing fitting before trying a re-flare?
-Christopher

[monkey spanners]

You could try heating your existing flare till its red hot, let it cool and the copper will be nice and soft again, has got me out of trouble in the past. I don't like that leaklok stuff, having this in the system would likely be worse than a bit of copper oxide...

If its a wall mount indoor unit i think i'd just cut out the fittings and braze them, only place it can leak then is the outdoor unit connections.

[cadillackid]

having this in the system would likely be worse than a bit of copper oxide...



I thought that Leak-lock was never applied directly to the mating surfaces but instead to the threads and the inside of the nut.. assuring it doesnt get into the air-conditioning system...
-Christopher

[Magoo]

Go back to school and learn how to use a flaring tool.

[tonyhavcr]

I use flare backer many times they are just the head of the flare and fit it over the old flare they have a flare backer for every size flare .

(I thought that Leak-lock was never applied directly to the mating surfaces but instead to the threads and the inside of the nut.. assuring it doesnt get into the air-conditioning system...
-Christopher http://www.refrigeration-engineer.com/forums/images/VA_RE/buttons/quote.gif (http://www.refrigeration-engineer.com/forums/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=166529))

I found it many times in txv once I found 1/4 line Plug with it.

[lowcool]

solder it up fella,anyway good practice dictates drier fitment once system has been opened.
cheers

[rude]

you have 2 options.

1. Redo the flare and apply leak lock on the thread.

2. Cut flares off and weld with nitrogen.

easy!

[sedgy]

hi all, in the old days it was common practice to put a drop of oil on both sides of the flair, it helps the copper spread as you tighten it up.

[mad fridgie]

Ah Chigo, would it not be cheaper to replace the unit, than spending all that time remaking a flare !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
What type of flare tool are you using?
You need on which rolls the flare (where the head turns), not one that makes the flare by compression only (where the head is static) up and down of course, Add a little oil to the flare tool face before flaring.

[acnerd]

What type of flare tool are you using?
You need on which rolls the flare (where the head turns), not one that makes the flare by compression only (where the head is static) up and down of course, Add a little oil to the flare tool face before flaring.

It's called an eccentric flaring tool. Best thing since sliced bread!! :D

[Clk320_Greg]

It's called an eccentric flaring tool. Best thing since sliced bread!! :D

No, best thing since sliced bread is the toaster...