samsung RS20CCMS American Fridge/Freezer

[whiteair]

Hi All,
There have been various posts re the icing up problem on these and other Samsung fridges, maybe I have the answer? Mine did the same, heater fuse blown behind the evap, heater checked out & worked ok, ordered new fuse assembly, refit, blew same fuse again, doh! Powered up heater independently, gets hot, draws 0.5 amps, left on test for half an hour, all ok. Strip blown fuse assembly, cut red wire, crimp in 2 blue female bullet connectors (Halfords), fit a glass or ceramic 1 amp mini fuse between the two connectors, fit heat shrink over fuse and seal, fit original clear Samsung heat shrink and seal. Refit to fridge, perfect, been working now for 6 weeks or more. Hope this helps.

Al the fridge ~ retired!

[happy]

You have created a fire hazard, the original part is a thermal fuse, not an electrical over-current fuse. It goes open circuit with an overheat situation - generally because the defrost sensor is faulty.

[whiteair]

I had already checked the defrost sensor against a new one which it matched reading for reading, take your point though. Al

[whiteair]

Just a thought, if the sensor was faulty shurely the defrost wouldn't either start or if it, it would not terminiate? Al

[happy]

Thats correct, if the sensor is faulty the heater could stay on for too long, therefore overheating. This is why the thermal fuse ruptures - it is a safety device which should always therefore remain in circuit to protect the defrost system

[spimps]

Samsung have redesigned the fan and fan housing and are doing repairs/recalls to correct design fault.
Best to check with them to see how you stand.+

[happy]

redesign does not cover rs20 models, it relates to rs21 models

[teemyob]

If you place the thermal fuse to close to the heater or fail to leave it wrapped in that white foam pad. It will blow again.

The heater should be located behind the evap.

TM