Samsung RL28FBSI not getting cold enough

[vzk]

Hi,
Copressor is running all the time.
Upper compartments inner back wall is getting icy. Measured temp on back wall near thermostats capillary tube ending and its below 0C. Overall temp in upper compartment goes down to about +8C. For temperature mesurments used Multimeter with thermocouple temperature sender.
Checked door seal visually, didnt notice any cracks or holes.
From outside somehow the side walls get warm. And the area between upper and lower door also gets warm.
Any ideas??

[martin344]

How old is it? Is it frost-free? The side walls do get warm (and the cental transom) as the heat removed from the cabinet is dissipated through the sides rather than tho old-style condenser mesh fitted to the back of the unit. The fact that the side are warm means that heat is being exchanged so it's likely that the gas system is ok. If it's a frost-free model, it's more than likely an issue with ice build-up in the freeer due to any number of faults, the most common being a breakdown in the de-frost heater circuit.

[vzk]

Its over 3 years old. Warranty just ended :).
Heres the manual: http:
//downloadcenter.samsung.com/content/UM/200505/20050518150413843_RL28FBSW_SI_%5B1%5D%5B1%5D.pdf
It contains even schematics.

Is it frost-free? Im not sure what do you mean? But it does have somekind of "heater" wich is supposed to be swithed on if abient temp drops below +15C. Dont actully understand what is it for?

[vzk]

Hi
I answered to your post a few days ago, but its not visible yet.
Fridge is just over 3 years old. I cannot post a link but if you google for a rl28fbsi user manual then you should find it. It also contains schematics.
There is some kind of heater unit, but its ment to be turned on if ambient room temp drops below +15C. Turning it on anyway didnt help.
Also it seems that fridges back wall is not ment to be removed. Or can it be removed by force so that no harm is done?

[vzk]

Does anyone have any idea?

[fridge doctor]

The internal back wall of the refrigerator section must reach a temperature of at least -13 degrees C. Otherwise the thermostat will not come into play, and will not be able to stop the compressor. You only say "below 0"... This in addition to the overall temp of +8 would correspond with the above. Your problem therefore is that the refrigeration circuit is nowhere near the correct parameters. The 'fault' will be either a shortage of refrigerant (unlikely unless you have recently moved house... deliberately plunged a knife into one of the pipes... or otherwise seriously maltreated the item). or... much more likely, the compressor is failing - perhaps due to a situation where it is unable to 'breathe' (lack of ventilation)? - seriously overheated

[vzk]

Fridge is not against any wall and i think it has "breathing" room. Is there any point of refilling the system? Repair man said that theyd also replace some kind of filter element in the system.