Whirlpool ARG 918WP (int F/F) Power on, but neither fridge or freezer working

[malwrx]

Help please.

We have a Whirlpool ARG 918WP (int F/F) Service number 8534 918 15010 - about 12 yrs old. A few days ago stopped working. We turned mains off and on again and compressor noise seemed to start again - normal noise. Next day realised it had stopped working and was defrosting. Tried all combinations of turning off and waiting different times, but now completely dead. Power lights on, but neither fridge or freezer working and no noises. Model had two thermostats so unlikely that they have both gone at the same time. I understand could be a faulty relay, but will not know unless I order and buy one - about a week. I have tried banging bottom of inside of fridge incase loose connection or relay starting to fail, but completely dead. Whirlpool unhelpful.

Any ideas anyone, is it worth repairing?

Thanks

[fazzamouse]

12 years old,good innings suggest a trip to currys or comet..

[malwrx]

Any practical solutions to this problem?

Thanks Malwrx

[amitsaxena]

Dear Malwrx,

Please check for the electrical connection of the compressor as there is a possibility that the relay got burned. Hence first check the relay then reply back.

thanks
amit

[malwrx]

Dear Malwrx,

Please check for the electrical connection of the compressor as there is a possibility that the relay got burned. Hence first check the relay then reply back.

thanks
amit
Thanks for reply amitsaxena

I have evently managed to remove the doors and take out of kitchen cabinet.

I have removed cover to white connection box and checked and tightened all connections. Still not working.

Then removed black cover, I think to relay box fixed on the LH side of the compressor. All spade connections are OK with no signs of any burning.
Have also tapped to ensure no loose connections, but still not working.

Tried to get relay unit out of housing which seems to be attached to the compressor, but although can move slightly I cannot remove.

Is this the relay?

Is this likely to be the cause of the problem that I detailed above?

If so, what is the trick to remove the relay from the housing?

As neither fridge or freezer work I cannot see that there can be anything else to go wrong. I cannot see any evidence of any fan/s.

Thankfully we have another fridge freezer and another separate freezer in the house!

[amitsaxena]

Check for the thermostat connection.

Also dont forget to check the main supply board.

Thanks
Amit

[malwrx]

Check for the thermostat connection.

Also dont forget to check the main supply board.

Thanks
Amit

Not sure where to find the thermostat connection. Apparently there are two thermostats on this fridge freezer. Do you mean the connection/s on the relay? These are all OK.

Where would I find the thermostat connections?

Also as there are two different thermostats it would be highly unlikely for both thermostats and or their connections to develop problems at the same time.

Mains supply is fine, the power lights and the internal light all work O.K. and now I have removed the F/F from its cupboard, I have temporarily connected to a different power socket anyway.

I think the most probable problem is the relay itself and once removed I would be confident on being able to change over connections and re-fit new.

Does it sound like it is the relay?

Any ideas as to how to remove the black relay (assuming that this is the relay) from the metal housing joined to the compressor?

It feels as though there is a small lug on the relay switch and a corresponding cut out in the metal housing that may be preventing its release.

Thanks

Malwrx

[Yuri B.]

It would be better if you attached a picture of the parts you are speaking about. I would advise you also to buy a multimeter and a current clamp - and not for this particular instance.

[malwrx]

Thanks Yuri B

I attach a photo. White connection box on left, further connections to the relay (I think) with cover on floor in front. The black plastic cover was held on with metal spring/strap clipped into position. Relay housing seems to be attached to or part of side of the compressor.

Although I could move the relay slightly within the housing, I cannot seem to detach it and obviously do not want to force it if I am able to get F/F repaired.

I understand that the Whirlpool part number of the relay is 4819 2806 8224, but I cannot find a picture or photo of the relay on any supplier sites to see if this is the part that I am looking at.

I am not sure that the relay is the cause of the problem anyway. Any ideas?

I do have a test meter, but I am not electrician and would not know which terminals to check and what the readings should be.

Regards

Malwrx

[Yuri B.]

What is rated voltage and current of the Whirlpool ?
Are there two condensers in that white box - one about 10-20 mF, another 40-60 mF ?

Two major questions/problem you will need to find out (and which you will nor resolve just by yourself):
- Is the compŗessor fine
- Is there refrigerant in the system
(and following from the latter - is the system tight)

Make a drawing of the '"black box" containing a relay - with all its contacts and cables and wires colours. Then try, very carefully and using appropriate instrument, to dismantle everything. You should come down to just three pins on the compressor"s side. I confess to not have seen this particular relay before, but am almost 100 % sure all there is dismantable and the box with relay is set on three compressor motor"s pins (there may be the fourth pin - for protective ''earth"').

[malwrx]

Thanks for your help.

UK voltage 220-240V

I would say compressor and refridgerant are OK. No signs of any leaks and was working fine until stopped cooling all of a sudden. I suspect it is an electrical fault.

No condensors in the white box just a large connector block.

Have now got relay switch housing off of side of compressor and can now see the three pins connected to the compressor. See photo.

No signs of any burning or damage, so I still do not know if this is likely to be the problem.

[Yuri B.]

Take the relay off and measure resistance across the pins

12h - 4h should be, I guess, some 3 Ohms
12h - 8h 7 Ohms
8h - 4h 10 Ohms

[malwrx]

Take the relay off and measure resistance across the pins

12h - 4h should be, I guess, some 3 Ohms
12h - 8h 7 Ohms
8h - 4h 10 Ohms

Thanks for prompt response Yuri B

I am not an electrician and so a bit unsure about checking this on a live component. What are the voltages/currents at the relay connections? I.E. what are the risks of getting a shock?

If it is not the relay any ideas about what else would have caused the F/F to stop working?

[Yuri B.]

My god! Road to hell is indeed paved with good intentions! Do not do anything please if you are unaquainted with electricity.

[Yuri B.]

All what a I asked you to do have to be done with power OFF (plug off from the socket!!!).

[Yuri B.]

Just measure resistance between the compressor pins.

[malwrx]

All what a I asked you to do have to be done with power OFF (plug off from the socket!!!).

Thanks Yuri

Do not panic, I am still alive.

All so far has been with power off. I have previously repaired various domestic appliances and I am very careful around electricity.

I have only explored the possibility that the relay is at fault because I understand that they can have loose connections, short, burn out etc. etc. Also because Whirlpool have told me that there are two thermostats on this model, I had discounted both thermostats going faulty at the same time as neither fridge or freezer work and no noises from relay or compressor. But now I have got the F/F out from the kitchen cabinet I can see that there is only one piped circuit coming out of the compressor. Surely this means that there is only one thermostat, The one in the fridge?

I understand to just measure resistance on the relay itself - unconnected.
Thanks again

[344martin]

If you only have one compressor, it is unlikely there will be two thermostats. The likeliest possibility given the age of the unit is that there will be one thermostat in the fridge which will determine temperature of both cabinets (it's all worked out by a formula when they design them). Easy to by-pass stat if you know what to do! the thermostat is only a make and break switch, turning compressor on and off. Whirlpool tend to make their stats fit only their units (i.e. generic parts cn not be made to fit as the stat plugs into a housing and the terminals on the stat are offset to fit housing)

[malwrx]

Thanks 344martin

Whirlpool are adamant that there are two thermostats and even gave two different part numbers. But that is just the parts order taker on the phone and as they tell you they are not technical. Whirlpool do not have any technical support, except to send out an engineer at a cost of about £80 for the call out plus parts. I had a similar poor experience when the Whirlpool dishwasher went wrong and we were ripped off by Whirlpool's subcontracted engineer whom charged us to tell us that he could not repair the dishwasher hinge after Whirlpool had stated that it was repairable!

I will not buy another Whirlpool product again.

Any way, would you know how to get the plastic thermostat cover off to change the thermostat (without forcing it off) after I have removed the adjuster knob?

Also how do I by-pass the thermostat to check it before ordering new thermostat?

I am under real pressure now from wife to get this repaired or buy a replacement.

Thanks

[malwrx]

Thanks 344martin

Any way, would you know how to get the plastic thermostat cover off to change the thermostat (without forcing it off) after I have removed the adjuster knob?

Also how do I by-pass the thermostat to check it before ordering new thermostat?

I am under real pressure now from wife to get this repaired or buy a replacement.


Anyone any answers to these queries, please?

Thank you Malwrx

[Yuri B.]

Malwrx, you seem not to have yet checked compressor winding (12 years is rather an age for a machine). If it dead all other in vain.