Zanussi Fridge-Freezer ZI 8454 X - WARM

[gorty]

Both the fridge and freezer are not as cold as they should be. 2-months ago I noticed my ice-cream spoiled, the freezer warning light was flashing, then within 24-hours the freezer had returned to normal -18, I put this down to the door maybe not being closed properly. Today the freezer has gone up to -6, the fridge slightly warmer too. It now looks like I have an intermittent fault. It's a frost free model. I have switched it off to defrost in the hope this may get rid of the problem (no actual frost though). Any ideas ? can anyone advise on how to check the health of the various components, e.g. thermostat. I have access to a multimeter and thermometer. The unit is 4-years old and had light use only. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

[nike123]

You maybe have access to instruments, but do you have knowledge to safely use them on parts that are on deadly voltage?
Tools are good only as peoples who use them.
Now, when I warned you, I could proceed with guidance.;)
First thing you should check is that thermostat sends voltage to compressor when you have high temperature in fridge compartment.
So put you termostat at maximum and keep open fridge door. If compressor doesn't start in short time, check voltage at compressor terminals marked C and R.
If you have voltage same as your power suply voltage, and compressor doesn't run, than check resistance of compressor between C-R and C-S when fridge is disconnected from power supply, and post here your findings.

Are you sure that you could done this safely!

[Mozambezi]

I had a few Zanussi counters.
One type has cap expansion valve... and usually got problems : a. fan inside of cabinet not blowing air. b. short of gas or cap tube blocked.
c. Controls are clock type, so sometimes stuck on defrost

Zanussi with Eliwell controls usually haven't got problems, but check doorswithes /they are easy to broke/ after that check fans indicator on controls /they should pull down temp when door closed/

[gorty]

hi, thanks for the quick response, I'm impressed I could fix my freezer here on this forum. I got in about it tonight with screwdriver, multimeter and digital camera. There are 2 compressors, can't figure out which is fridge and which is freezer. Centre junction point, not sure what this does yet (see pic). Then Relay type box with 3 flexes entering, inside terminals L&N at 235V, then 4 terminals, two are at 235V, the other 2 terminals move between 24V and 0V, it appears the controls circuit is 24V and the compressor circuit 235V mains. It's difficult to tell when the compressors are on and off as sometimes they run very quiet. There are 3 thermostats, 1 at top of fridge, 1 at top-right of freezer and 1 at bottom of fridge next to centre junction box. Freezer also has fan at back left, I've not opened this section. From what I can figure out, freezer comes on if set to S, I chilled to -18 last night, but if freezer if left on say 6, it might be on for a while, but will switch off and not come on again, as when you return the freezer is up at +10 again. Therefore I think the problem is with centre_juction or freezer thermostat. I've added pictures. Door switches seem fine, i.e. lights go out when pressed.

Pictures won't post to forum as I've not made the required 15-posts, I'll look for a work around to get you the pictures.

[gorty]

To view pictures, go to flickr dotcom, click "people" tab, search for "gorty1", you will see pictures. Hopefully you will recognise the function of centre juction.

[nike123]

To view pictures, go to flickr dotcom, click "people" tab, search for "gorty1", you will see pictures. Hopefully you will recognise the function of centre juction.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/34424759@N08/

You should check that when freezer stops to operate, his relay have or doesn't have control voltage! If it doesn't have control voltage you should track back his low voltage leads to source and post here what you find. If it does have low voltage present, than you should check high voltage side for presence of 220V. That is check of correct operation of freezer relay.
If freezer relay works correctly, then your freezer thermostat is faulty (if nothing is in between relay and freezer thermostat) or compressor and/or his starting group is faulty/doggy, depending on presence or absence of 220V at his terminals.

[gorty]

Hi, thanks for posting link to photos. At the relay, I have seen 0V & 24V for both control wires, and heard the compressor running, and I've had the freezer down to -18, so I'm confident the freezer is getting it's 230V and running some of the time. I looked at coolant circuit, it appears I only have 1 circuit for both fridge and freezer as the pipe runs from compressor1, to fan unit in freezer, then round grid on rear, then round drip tray, then to compressor2, is this a correct assumption, would I have 2 compressors in same circuit?. There are 3 compartments to the unit, fridge-compartment, drawers-at-bottom-of-fridge, then freezer. Each compartment has it's own thermostat. There is a duct 10cmx3cm between drawers-at-bottom-of-fridge and freezer. It seems the unit is chilling, but for some reason the chilled air is not always being routed to the freezer.

Is the centre juction some type of air-flow valve ?

[gorty]

Figured it out ! The drawers at the bottom of the fridge are cooled using chilled air from the freezer, the thermostat for this area operates a valve to let cool air in from the freezer. All indications pointed to a faulty freezer thermostat, ordered a new one on espares.co.uk £35, fitted and freezer working again, yee haaa

[amitsaxena]

My only suggestion is to go for

1. Timer change (If it is timer based defrost)
2. Thermostat

Based on my experience (99% Thermostat/ Timer) either one is faulty