Manitowoc ice machine

[bswallace1000]

We had an ice machine donated and it works good but only for a short time. I think it is only an hour and then everything shuts off. I can unplug then plug it back in or turn the switch off and and back on and it works perfectly again but only one or two cycles and shuts off again. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

[Gary]

We had an ice machine donated and it works good but only for a short time. I think it is only an hour and then everything shuts off. I can unplug then plug it back in or turn the switch off and and back on and it works perfectly again but only one or two cycles and shuts off again. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

I assume it is a cuber?

Is the machine level? Both front to back and side to side?

Does the ice sheet drop? Is it a full sheet?

Does the plastic curtain in front of the evaporator return to its closed position after the sheet drops?

[bswallace1000]

I assume it is a cuber?
yes


Is the machine level? Both front to back and side to side?
yes


Does the ice sheet drop? Is it a full sheet?
yes


Does the plastic curtain in front of the evaporator return to its closed position after the sheet drops?
yes

I dont know anything about ice machines, it was donated to our non-profit organization and I help with repairs and remodeling, but I am a "jack of all trades" and follow directions well!

[Gary]

Inside the front cover there should be a list of fault codes with instructions.

[Gary]

You might find a service manual for your machine here:

http://www.manitowocice.com/service/servicemanuals.asp

[bswallace1000]

Inside the front cover there should be a list of fault codes with instructions.

there is a list of two fault codes but the green led isnt flashing and the red led is off. If I turn the power switch off will that reset any fault codes? If so, I will wait untill it shuts off again and check for codes then. thank you.

[Gary]

As I recall... the led flashes when the machine is turned on.

[Gary]

What model is your machine?

[bswallace1000]

What model is your machine?

Manitowoc Q210
Model # QY0214A

It flashes once
"Ice machines freeze time exceeded 60 minutes consecutively 3 times."

[Gary]

Is the condenser air cooled? If so, clean the coil.

[bswallace1000]

Is the condenser air cooled? If so, clean the coil.

Yes it is, I will try that first. Can I use just water?

I guess that means it is taking to long for the water to freeze into ice? How long should it take. I thought I had timed it and it only took 30 minutes. Thank you for your help.

[bswallace1000]

Is the condenser air cooled? If so, clean the coil.

I made a mistake. I checked twice this time and the fault code is
"The ice machines harvest time exceeded 3.5 minutes consecutively 3 times."

The coil was clean but the ice machine seems to put out a lot of heat. Is that normal?

[platinumfreeze]

Those machines remove alot of heat fast. It's probably not sensing the curtain return after the drop or the ice thickness may not be properly adjusted. The LEDS will tell you what is going on. If I remember correctly, it has a LED for the curtain position. Its been a while since I've worked on one. Gary's Da Man!!

[Gary]

Did you time the defrost to see if it actually takes 3.5 minutes?

[Gary]

The evaporator is the cupped plate where the ice sheet forms.

In front of the evaporator is a large square plastic cover. This is the curtain. The curtain prevents water from spilling over into the bin during the freeze cycle.

When the machine goes into harvest, the ice sheet separates from the evaporator, pushes the curtain forward, and drops into the bin. The curtain then falls back into position, starting the next cycle.

Watch the harvest to make sure each of these steps occurs smoothly with nothing hanging up.

If the harvest does not occur within 3.5 minutes, the machine will automatically return to freeze cycle. If this occur three consecutive times, the machine will stop.

Check the ice sheet as it drops to be sure a full sheet is being formed.

[tarcau mihai]

the evaps are orizontal or vertical?if there are vertical check one by one the lamels inside ..one or more can be removed a litle bit,and that can be a reason why the ice dosn't fall in 3 minutes....

[bswallace1000]

I havent had any problems the last 24 hours. The bin is now full and I have to remove ice to do further testing. This is what I have seen so far. One time the ice wasnt a full sheet but usually it is. I think the sheet of ice may be too thick so I adjusted that just a little. It is suposed to be 1/8 in thick? I am making small adjustments to get it to the right thickness.

[Gary]

You might want to run a bottle of ice machine cleaner through it. This may help keep the ice sheet from sticking to the evap plate.

[Gary]

After 100 successful cycles, the fault codes will automatically reset.

[bswallace1000]

Everything seems to be fine now. I didnt really do anything to it except run it for a little while. Maybe it had been sitting before I got it, but all is good. Thank You Very Much!

[Nineball11]

Can anyone tell me, should the ice fall before or after you hear the gas valve kick off? The ice holds on for about 30 seconds and the ice drops, then the machine comes back on in about 1 minute and makes more ice, Should the machine work more efficently? Someone told me bad gas valve but......

[MarshMan]

The gas valve should kick off as the ice is coming off when the curtain switch opens due to the ice pushing the door. If your ice is hanging on the plate after it has pushed the curtain open enough to open the switch, then your plate is dirty(common) or you have plate/tubing seperation(not common on that model). You can only use nickel safe cleaner on that machine or the nickel coating will come off. What does the plate look like? Harvest should take anywhere from 1-2 minutes.

[aprophet]

if you turn the machine off and let it dry out a little it will be easier to see the scale build up kina hard to tell when the plate is wet hth

[nilo]

CAN ANYONE HELP?

My Manitowoc QDO802A (S/N 030963494) is shutting down after maybe a day or two days or two weeks. There are no safety codes flashing. The condenser coils have been cleaned 3 times. The factory tech man said that incondensables are in the system. I've had the refrigerant changed out twice. I don't think this is the problem. Care was taken on changing the refrigerant.

Still the same problem -- it shuts down. Low side pressures are nearly according to the manual. High side pressures are peaking about 275 lbs (which is high according to the manual, but not enough to trip the high pressure switch). The air temperature into the condenser is about 85-90 degrees. The air out of the condensing unit is about 120 degrees. Refrigerant charge is correct.

This is an intermittent problem that occurrs. Sometimes it will run 2 days or 2 weeks then start shutting down. After about 15 minutes it can be restarted, but after a few cycles, or a few days the problem starts all over.

Could there be a problem with the control board or a sensor?

Where can I download a factory service manual? The ones I've seen just give readings for normal operation. This is getting expensive.

[Gary]

Your condenser delta-T is 30-35F (120-90=30, 120-85=35). This indicates insufficient air flow through the condenser. Since the condenser has been cleaned repeatedly, that leaves the fan motor and fan blade. It is possible that the motor bearings are starting to wear out, slowing the fan and locking up intermittantly. I would replace the motor and blade.

This may or may not be the problem. Intermittant problems are the most difficult to diagnose.

Let us know how it works out.

[texas64]

The control board is costly, but if you are having an intermittent problem, then replace it.

[nilo]

Nilo says thanks to gary and texas64 for the replies about this problem.

The condenser motor is not stopping and it is moving plenty of air. The motor turns freely after running for a while, and the amperage draw on it is OK. I really don't think the control board is the problem, but I am not disputing with texas64 on this.

Also a new factory TXV has been installed, which helped a lot. Also, after this last recharge and cleaning since this original post, the machine is running and not shutting down, but ice production is still not up to par. The manual says 12-14 minutes of freeze cycle to harvest. This machine is going 16-20 minutes before its harvests, sometimes longer. And the discharge pressure still runs about 40-50 pounds higher (325-350) than the Q manual states for the corresponding air inlet temperatures listed. Perhaps the condenser is still in need of a better cleaning. I haven't found what the delta-T should be for different air inlet temperature. Any suggestions?

What do you suggest as a good condenser cleaner? Should a power sprayer be used -- that would require taking the unit outside, wouldn't it? It is a heavy dude sitting on top of a storage bin.

When the condenser was cleaned before, it didn't really seem that the cleaner was doing the job of removing the dirt and grease (machine sets beside a commercial deep fryer with a big vent hood over it). No place else to put it. It ran about 7 years there without any problem, but the condenser got pretty dirty. The machine did run better with lower discharge pressures and did quit shutting down after this last cleaning.

Thanks for any further suggestions. I really appreciate it. It getting there, but not there yet.

[Gary]

Discharge pressure high for air inlet temp could mean the system is overcharged. Was the system charge weighed in according to nameplate?

[crimsontiger]

Nilo says thanks to gary and texas64 for the replies about this problem.

The condenser motor is not stopping and it is moving plenty of air. The motor turns freely after running for a while, and the amperage draw on it is OK. I really don't think the control board is the problem, but I am not disputing with texas64 on this.

Also a new factory TXV has been installed, which helped a lot. Also, after this last recharge and cleaning since this original post, the machine is running and not shutting down, but ice production is still not up to par. The manual says 12-14 minutes of freeze cycle to harvest. This machine is going 16-20 minutes before its harvests, sometimes longer. And the discharge pressure still runs about 40-50 pounds higher (325-350) than the Q manual states for the corresponding air inlet temperatures listed. Perhaps the condenser is still in need of a better cleaning. I haven't found what the delta-T should be for different air inlet temperature. Any suggestions?

What do you suggest as a good condenser cleaner? Should a power sprayer be used -- that would require taking the unit outside, wouldn't it? It is a heavy dude sitting on top of a storage bin.

When the condenser was cleaned before, it didn't really seem that the cleaner was doing the job of removing the dirt and grease (machine sets beside a commercial deep fryer with a big vent hood over it). No place else to put it. It ran about 7 years there without any problem, but the condenser got pretty dirty. The machine did run better with lower discharge pressures and did quit shutting down after this last cleaning.

Thanks for any further suggestions. I really appreciate it. It getting there, but not there yet.

I have had, on the ice thickness sensor, water run down the adjustment screw and cause a closed circuit situation. Water make continuity from ground to the sensor pick-up. This does not happen when dry but after it has run for awhile the water slowly makes it's way down. Try putting a small "O"ring about 1/4" down the screw to cause the water to drip there instead of running all the way down the sensor. I understand there is an arched molding on sensor to prevent this but it does not work.
Hope this helps.

[crimsontiger]

Nice cure I found for grease laden coils in restaurants.
"COLD OVEN CLEANER"

[texas64]

You could have a combination of being overcharged AND a still have a dirt/grease impacted condenser. Really since this machine is next to a fryer(WTH, why do people do this? I know, it's a space issue...), you should take it off the bin and use a degreaser followed by a condenser coil cleaner and powerwash it until clear. That grease is a never ending problem. Also order the factory aluminum mesh washable filter that fits on the back of the unit just in front of the coil or make a rack to slide in a cheap fiberglass air conditioner filter (no pleated or poly) that can be changed every two to 3 weeks. Another thing, can you give us a temp on the water entering the unit?