fujitsu error code

[bangoman]

bn to a fujitsu inverter with the folowing specs
outdoor unit model:AOTR09JCC
indoor unit model:ASTA09JCC
changed outdoor pcb and the sensors but unit wont start timer light on the indor unit blinks twice then stops then starts again after sometime.
wat i dd
checked all sensors ok
checked outdoor fan motor ok
check supply votage ok

?????

[paul_h]

Did you check comms? After the I/U wants to runs the outdoor unit (after time delay etc), o/u will be given mains voltage (does that happen?)
Is there ~90V-130v AC on the comms terminal?
If not you need to diode test to see if the lesser voltage is from the indoor or outdoor.
Eg, if comms is ~50V, this is where the diode testing I've mentioned comes in, how do you know which one is not sending signal, it could be a dead indoor or a dead outdoor PCB?
Testing with a diode inline of your MM and measuring in DC volts tells you whether it's outdoor or indoor PCBs. Get a 600v 1A diode and make it into a test lead, it acts as a one way valve for AC voltage, so you can measure the actual DC output from either the indoor only or the outdoor only PCB.
In the meantime, maybe disconnect the comms line and measure them disconnected to see if you get voltage from either to narrow the problem down. The unit will cut power quickly though with the units comms disconnected.
Find out which PCB is dead, check components.

I don't have anything on the JCC, I got out of the fuji game when the LCC was the new unit.
But the theory is the same, make sure the outdoor unit powers up (TX valve chatters, 50v from outdoor pcb terminal with diode testing on the comms line when unit activated) if that happens indoor pcb is faulty.
Though faulty indoor PCB that is rare when the indoor unit turns on and the fan runs, it does happen.

Normally it's the outdoor DC voltage circuit, ie. AFM, diode bridge etc.
Of course you could have a dead compressor that's stuffed up your new PCB (did you megger it?)

[SUBCONTRACTOR]

Did you check comms? After the I/U wants to runs the outdoor unit (after time delay etc), o/u will be given mains voltage (does that happen?)
Is there ~90V-130v AC on the comms terminal?
If not you need to diode test to see if the lesser voltage is from the indoor or outdoor.
Eg, if comms is ~50V, this is where the diode testing I've mentioned comes in, how do you know which one is not sending signal, it could be a dead indoor or a dead outdoor PCB?
Testing with a diode inline of your MM and measuring in DC volts tells you whether it's outdoor or indoor PCBs. Get a 600v 1A diode and make it into a test lead, it acts as a one way valve for AC voltage, so you can measure the actual DC output from either the indoor only or the outdoor only PCB.
In the meantime, maybe disconnect the comms line and measure them disconnected to see if you get voltage from either to narrow the problem down. The unit will cut power quickly though with the units comms disconnected.
Find out which PCB is dead, check components.

I don't have anything on the JCC, I got out of the fuji game when the LCC was the new unit.
But the theory is the same, make sure the outdoor unit powers up (TX valve chatters, 50v from outdoor pcb terminal with diode testing on the comms line when unit activated) if that happens indoor pcb is faulty.
Though faulty indoor PCB that is rare when the indoor unit turns on and the fan runs, it does happen.

Normally it's the outdoor DC voltage circuit, ie. AFM, diode bridge etc.
Of course you could have a dead compressor that's stuffed up your new PCB (did you megger it?)



Sorry for the blunt question but how to conect the diode(as it works only one way)
shall i put it to the + or - on the MM ,also which way ( direction of current comming from the power source towards the MM or the other way around)

[paul_h]

Sorry for the blunt question but how to conect the diode(as it works only one way)
shall i put it to the + or - on the MM ,also which way ( direction of current comming from the power source towards the MM or the other way around)
Put it on the + MM lead the direction of the flow to the MM.
When you put that diode and MM red lead on the comms line, and your plain MM black lead on neutral, you are testing the indoor unit (regardless of whether you are at the indoor or outdoor teminal)
When you reverse the leads (diode and MM red lead on the neutral, black MM lead on the signal) you are testing the outdoor signal (again regardless whether you are measuring at the indoor or outdoor unit)
And you're measuring DC volts, which should fluctuate between 20 and 60 V DC

[nike123]

bn to a fujitsu inverter with the folowing specs
outdoor unit model:AOTR09JCC
indoor unit model:ASTA09JCC
changed outdoor pcb and the sensors but unit wont start timer light on the indor unit blinks twice then stops then starts again after sometime.
wat i dd
checked all sensors ok
checked outdoor fan motor ok
check supply votage ok

?????

That is serial reverse signal error. That mean that signal is not coming from outdoor unit to main processor in indoor unit.
If your power supply is OK check voltage between N and 3 terminal. It should fluctuate between 70 and 130V at AC Voltage position of multimeter.
If not in that range, check AFM module! If AFM is OK then change outdoor unit main PCB.
If in range, check conections in indoor unit, and if that is OK change indoor unit PCB

P.S.
AFM module check is explained in this thread! (http://www.refrigeration-engineer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15069&highlight=Fujitsu)

[SUBCONTRACTOR]

Thanx so i am a bit better engineer after all.May i ask another Q to get even better engineer.The Q is : you mensioned before that this is the most important thing ,diode test and live Voltage test.I notice testing components ,that it gives you different value if measured in curcuit ,just the diode or MM on resistance or special diode range ...
you actualy menasion volts when measuring diode istead of ohms.Does the second test apply when the unit is powered up and you do the tests so then you get volts results

[paul_h]

Thanx so i am a bit better engineer after all.May i ask another Q to get even better engineer.The Q is : you mensioned before that this is the most important thing ,diode test and live Voltage test.I notice testing components ,that it gives you different value if measured in curcuit ,just the diode or MM on resistance or special diode range ...
you actualy menasion volts when measuring diode istead of ohms.Does the second test apply when the unit is powered up and you do the tests so then you get volts results
I'm not sure if I follow you. Adding an actual diode to your multimeter lead as described in this thread is only for measuring comms voltage, not components.

When 'diode testing' other things, like condenser fan or IPM, you are not using an inline diode, just the diode testing function of your plain multimeter to measure certain voltages. That is how you test PWM fan motors, the main diode bridge, or the compressor IPM.
When testing live voltages, it's mainly to do with the posistor protection. The posistor cuts all power to the DC circuit if there's a fault. The outdoor unit runs mostly on the DC circuit. So disconnecting things and testing if the DC circuit is still dead (posistor still protecting the circuit) is the quickest way to find out what is faulty.
Once you have disconnected the faulty device, the posistor will go closed circuit again, so you know what you have just disconnected was the cause of the fault.
For example AFM short: disconnect inputs to AFM, put multimeter leads into input plugs, switch unit on.
If 240v DC there, diode bridge (the part preceeding the AFM) is good, if not diode bridge is bad.
if good: remove AFM outputs, reconnect inputs, switch power on. If output terminals 320Vdc, AFM good, if not AFM bad.
It's all to do with knowing the circuit
240V ac -> diode bridge -> AFM -> main PCB -> IPM, TX valve, CF motor.
Trace the power and verify what the posistor has a problem with, what causes it to cut power, what it doesn't mind have powered up.

edit: And when you find the fault, don't stop looking. A main board fault could be caused by a faulty condenser fain (diode check the motor separately), or an IPM fault could be caused by a faulty compressor (megger test the windings)