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Pete L
26-11-2007, 01:01 PM
Am having real problems getting a dehum. to run properly.Unit is an Ebac which had a seized tecumseh rotary compressor. Exact replacement compressor only available on long lead time so ended up with similar sized (in cc's) Samsung unit. Set up is very simple with compressor, coil, pencil filter, capillary and hot flush solenoid valve.

Problem is that after a minute or 2 running, the gauge set goes into a vacuum, with the capillary heavily frosted. System is running on R22 but originally was 407c - but coil was repaired (original problem was refrigerant leak) and flushed prior to refitting. System charged with same wt of R22 as 407c and new filter fitted. Ambient temp 17-18C.

Thinking refrigerant level was low I added R22 and there was a slight improvement(ran a few minutes longer before vacuum) but ended up with twice specified refrigerant wt and decided this could not be right! knowing that dehum's are normally used in warm rooms, increased ambient to 24/25C and then system ran OK, ie 20 minutes refrigeration and 10 mins defrost. This is fine but surely cannot be right? Whilst not being very effective it ought to run at lower ambient temps I would have thought.

Spoke to friend in trade and he suggested capillary size may not be compatible for R22, so I removed refrigerant, disconnected coil and flushed and fitted second new filter(cut open first replacement and it was clean inside), vacuumedd and recharged with 407c. Same thing happened, within a minute or 2 gauge drops to vacuum. Have not tried increasing wt of refrigerant or increasing ambient but suspect results will match R22. Am I missing something obvious here?

I had wondered about moisture in system, causing cap blockage, but I vacuum for an hour every time and it's only a small system! If I fire up the solenoid flush valve manually, suction side comes out of vacuum within a minute or so, but then goes back to vacuum pretty quickly when flush valve closed. I have shortened capillary tube each time I have refitted it, probably 6 inches shorter than original, but cannot believe that would have had such an effect.

What am I overlooking?

fridge doctor
26-11-2007, 04:36 PM
Hi,

It has to be moisture given that the leak was on the evap. Apart from the obvious, what I would do is vac off and at the same time, using a hot air gun get the evap as hot as you can. This has the effect of boiling any droplets of water, turning them into steam. A vac pump won't bring water back from a coil, but it will bring it back in the form of steam.

Trevor

old gas bottle
26-11-2007, 04:40 PM
sounds like moisture or oil blocking the capilary,did you change the filter drier,with it having a leak that was a must do and for a larger capacity one too !,you may have to change it more than once to get it all out :eek:

Andy W
26-11-2007, 05:16 PM
6" is drastic, I presume you have all the covers on, the air filter is clear, the fan is running. If the evaporator is frosted all over evenly it is a lack of heat load in the room or workshop, dehumidifiers work better with an heat load.

Brian_UK
26-11-2007, 08:38 PM
What state is the cap line in now that you have mixed refrigerants in the system, why did you do that by the way?

What level of vacuum did you achieve before recharging?

Pete L
27-11-2007, 10:09 AM
Thanks for comments, looks like moisture is area to concentrate on, will try with hot air gun on coil.
Have now fitted 2 new filter driers, as I said I opened one and it was clean inside, having said that original was filthy inside, but I would have expected that.
Currently, covers are not fitted, but fan assembly is fitted and running ok, none of the isulation is back on either but for test purposes I did not think that would affect performance.
There was no intention to mix refrigerants, there was a mix up on compressors and I wanted to get it job out of the way!!! I've only got an analogue lp gauge (keep thinking about getting a digital unit), so as far as I can tell I got a full vacuum, sorry I cannot be more specific.

Brian_UK
28-11-2007, 12:47 AM
Sorry Pete, your manifold compound gauge is no good for checking the level of vacumm.

You need a proper Torr gauge or electronic micron gauge to measure it properly.

Pete L
28-11-2007, 05:00 PM
Brian,
had a nasty feeling you were going to say this.

I don't know the name Torr, but have seen a number of electronic gauges is there any particular one you recommend, not sure I need Rolls Royce version, but certainly something consistent and that lasts. I'm a bit sensitive to digital gauges as have been using a TIF hp digital gauge - very, very useful for leak detection compared to analogue, but it stopped working last week, 18 months old and at +£100 a bit expensive to bin every 18 months - am still waiting for seller to get back to me about repair, hence I want something that will last - and I do look after my kit!

Andy W
29-11-2007, 04:38 PM
I use an Edwards vacuum gauge, torr and mbar.

CoolKids
29-12-2007, 05:24 PM
Brian,
had a nasty feeling you were going to say this.

I don't know the name Torr, but have seen a number of electronic gauges is there any particular one you recommend, not sure I need Rolls Royce version, but certainly something consistent and that lasts. I'm a bit sensitive to digital gauges as have been using a TIF hp digital gauge - very, very useful for leak detection compared to analogue, but it stopped working last week, 18 months old and at +£100 a bit expensive to bin every 18 months - am still waiting for seller to get back to me about repair, hence I want something that will last - and I do look after my kit!

Torr is the name of the measurement like micron or psig.

I suggest you invest your hard earn pennys in a decent torr gauge as you will reap the benefit.

Climate center or Kooltech

Approx £160 £200 quid

garethjones
08-04-2011, 06:48 AM
Edwards vacuum gauge is good for you...




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